Master woodworker George Vondriska provides air dry fresh cut lumber tips for your woodworking projects. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video.
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<strong>Ticket # 42674 <strong>42672‬ Old air drying wood freshly cut lumber in the video the gentleman states the ends of the lumber is coded to slow down the moisture escaping to fast what is it that you coat the end of the lumber with, also you mentioned the moisture in the wood what are you looking for in moisture of the wood to work with is there a percentage range that you need to have so the wood won’t warp when you’re building your project?
I cut my own timber, White and Red Oak, Popular, Maple, Pine etc and mill to desired boards on my one man saw mill. Air Drying here in south east North Carolina is tough. Like today humidity is 94%. I do not have a kiln so best I can do is about 18% moisture. The lumber is mostly used for my own projects in/around my home. I always have problem with swelling and shrinking. any thoughts on how to control that? thanks
Did I hear you say to "coat" the ends of each board?
I have some Maple slabs that were fresh cut when I moved from Minnesota to New Mexico. I couldn’t stack them right away and they warped. I thought if I could soak them in water, then stack them with weight on top, they might straighten out. Has this ever been tried? Is there another way it can be done? Thanks, Ken
What methods can you recommend to remove the bark from sawn lumber, that will not gouge the live edge...there are drawknives that are sold for this purpose, yet you lose the "real" edge of the wood by doing that. And once the bark is off, what recommendations do you have for cleaning up the wood edge after it is dried....wire wheels, or are there better choices instead of this?
I have some racks in my workshop on the walls.....can I put fresh-cut lumber in the shop, stickered, in order to speed up drying (yet not go too fast in drying)? I understand that you never want direct sunlight on drying wood either....something that should have been mentioned in the video. Thanks
<strong>Ticket 18752 Can you share with me the style, make, and manufacturer of the moisture meter in this video?
I worked at a hardwood sawmill for many years and if anyone's interested here is a little tip for drying. The stickers between rows can cause staining that can run quite deep and ruin your wood for some "high end" projects so make sure they are kiln dry and use your router to cut grooves every half inch at 45 degree angles on both sides of the sticker. This will minimize surface contact while still providing the support you need to keep your wood flat and provides a little more airflow. Cheers
You refereed to a moisture meter. What should the meter read before you start using it. Different reading for different projects or what is the determinating factors
I want to know more about his article . Thanks.