How to Choose a Handsaw
Char Miller-KingDescription
Char doesn’t exclusively use hand tools, but she likes having them around for certain applications. In many cases she can grab a handsaw and make the cuts she needs in a lot less them than it would take to set up, plug in and use a power tool. So, what handsaws does Char like and use the most? These two saws make the cut.
Great for cutting plugs flush
Char’s first go-to saw is a Japanese Kugihiki Saw. With 15 tpi (teeth per inch) it provides a very fine cut. The blade is extremely flexible so, in tight quarters, you can easily keep the blade flush with the surface while you bend the blade to get the handle in a more manageable position. With its high tooth count and fine cut this saw is best used for crosscuts.
For general purpose work
Char likes a Ryoba saw for general use in her shop. It includes crosscut teeth (15 tpi) and rip teeth (9 tpi) on a single handle. So, one saw, two applications.
Cut on the pull stroke
Japanese pull saws vary from western saws in that they cut on the pull stroke instead of the push stroke. This allows the blade to have a thinner kerf, so it takes less oomph to move it through the cut.
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I have two favorite hand saws and they actually happen to be Japanese pull saws. And I like them because they're lightweight, easy to hold, and one of them even has a flexible blade. Let me show you how I use it to trim down these dowels. So I'm holding the saw parallel to my piece that I have here secure to my vise. And these saws cut on the pull, hence the name pull saws. Easy. The ability to bend the blades on the saws make it easy so that I can get into tight spaces. And I could almost work around at any angle with this type of saw. And let's say if I had another board here, for some reason, I would still be able to kind of wedge in there and use this saw. And the teeth on this saw are smaller than your typical hand saw. Now that we've seen the capabilities of this flexible saw, I'm going to take this one out and put a second piece of wood that I have in where I've already marked off the notches where I'm going to do a cross cut and a rip cut with this next saw. The important thing that you want to remember about using the Japanese pull saws is you want to be at a lower angle, so you can keep an eye on your cut line. Going to make a few just small relief cuts before I go all the way in. And the teeth on this side are a lot smaller. There's more teeth. There's about, there could be up to 15 points per inch on the cross cut side. And I like it because it gives you a nice clean kerf there for tight fitting joinery. So I'm gonna switch it around now and go in for my rip cut. Again, low and tight, flip the blade over and I'll be using the larger side for rip cutting, and that I can keep an eye on my, the line that I've drawn here. So going in first, making a couple of relief cuts and you wanna go in slow because you're cutting into the end grain, which can be a little tricky sometimes. There we go. I almost got it. And you notice that I'm holding the saw parallel to the board. Whereas with other hand tools, you would hold the saw at a 45 degree angle. And I'm not going all the way to the top because I don't want this part of the blade to get stuck in the kerf. And there, there you have it, a nice clean cut that you can't make with any other saw. I highly recommend getting a nice set of Japanese pull saws. They work great in any shop and are perfect for tenons and dovetails and any other fine detailed joinery.
Oh dear, this young lady has lots to learn! When cutting dowels she appears to be cutting on the push stroke more than the pull. Use much more of the blade length. When trimming dowels keep the direction of the saw in line with the grain otherwise you risk scratching the wood across the grain. On her rip cut she has trouble keeping to the line at the beginning. Use a finger or knuckle to run the side of the saw against when starting a cut. A more rigid saw might be better for a rip cut to prevent blade wander.
Japanese pull saws are extremely sharp when new and cut very quickly. The saws in the video appear to be really dull.
Great video, and a quick comment: A friend of mine once told me about the time a saw maker told him: "you just bought the entire saw; why not use the entire saw?" (Making tiny back-and-forth saw cuts do not speed things up and are more likely to cause scratches, even with a no-kerf saw blade.) Thanks for the video