WWGOA LIVE! March 2019

Here we go. Here we, here we, here we go. Here we, here we go Here we, here we- Technology. Hey folks, Jenny and Sam are telling me that we are live. So it must be true. Hey, we've got this microphone business figured out. So I'm excited about that. I'm hoping that it significantly increases the audio quality for you folks. So first off, as always, thanks to the folks at Titebond for sponsoring and underwriting what we're doing here every month, month after month. I'm gonna talk about the weather just a little bit 'cause it's been crazy business. There was no snow on the ground here in Wisconsin, mid January, and then suddenly it started and we got like 30 inches of snow from mid January to early March and it came and just these huge heaps. Like we weren't getting two inches at a time we were getting 12 inches at a time. So much, much blowing of snow. So outside, I mean the snow on the ground is probably 30 inches deep. Now, of course, it's lovely, it's 40 degrees out and it's raining. So everything is melting just a little bit too fast. And I'll tell ya if you're a maple syrup maker which I've done a bunch of times in my life this is not gonna be a good season for you because I think we're not getting sunny days. The temperatures are funky. I don't think we're gonna have much going for maple syrup, natural maple syrup this year. So anyway, I have digressed ever so slightly. Carl says, "The storm in Colorado is going to be here by the time we air". Not yet Carl. I mean, I don't know, it's pouring, but it's not snowing. Says, "what is the best way to do dust collection on a bandsaw when cutting bigger pieces?" It's just dust collection on a band saw sucks, pun intended. Let's show them Jenny and the Laguna. So just turn this way and I'll show you what this one's got. And I, this is pretty actually pretty good dust collection. It's supposed to snow at 8pm. All right, well, I'm glad they got the timing down. And then down here below the table, what works well on a bandsaw, I have found one, a lot of older bandsaws only have small, maybe two inch ports on them and then you just don't get enough air flow through that to have good dust collection. So a four inch port instead of a two inch port and then one at the top and one at the bottom. And that is gonna give you the most optimal air flow to make sure you pick up. So some kind of arrangement like this. If your saw doesn't already have this, then if you can rig something like that, emulate that to simulate that on your saw, that would be a good way to go. Bandsaws are a good example of the need for air flow which is a dust collector, not static pressure which is a shot vacuum. So they're really gonna, you're gonna get your best dust collection over there if you connect to a dust collector not a shot vacuum. Next. "What's the story behind the sign behind you in your videos? I too will something make and glory in the making." So if you've not seen it it's hiding behind the Titebond sign. There it is. Whoops. Sorry Titebond. This'll be easy. Come on. There we go. Uno. Dos. So first off, the deal with me getting the sign, I taught for years and years and years at the Woodcraft store in Bloomington, Minnesota. Maybe for a decade, I don't know, a long time. And that sign was hanging up in the school at the Woodcraft store and someone had hand-carved it. And when I left there and I wasn't teaching there anymore I actually printed it on a piece of paper. 'Cause I like what it said. I too, shall something make and glory in the making. So I liked the sentiment of the sign, excuse me. So I printed it and then it was hanging in my old shop for the longest time. And then a guy who I knew, Mike Leonards, who worked at the woodcraft store for whatever reason the store got rid of the sign or whatever it was. And he grabbed it and held onto it. And then the next time I saw him he handed it to me and he had saved it for me. And I thought that was really cool. So it's been hanging here ever since. In the big scheme of things, it's a line from a poem which I think Robert Bridges is the author of the poem. And it's worth looking up. If you work with your hands, it's a short poem but the sentiment is about just that it's cool to make stuff. It's cool to turn raw materials into a finished product. And that's what it's all about. Liz says, "Greetings." Hey, Liz, greetings back. "Always enjoy your videos learn a great deal, I've made a wooden bench from fir kiln dried lumber that will be used outside. What's the best way to stain and preserve this piece for outdoor weather?" Here's what I would do. I would go to a specialty paint store like Hirshfield's or Sherwin-Williams tell them exactly what it is that you have and there's different, you know, part of the reason I'm hedging on this is the outside environment here in Wisconsin is way different than the outside environment in Arizona. We get a warm summer, but we get nowhere near the intensity of heat and sun and dry conditions that somebody in Arizona is gonna get. At the end of the day, in the big scheme of things I guess I would treat it like natural wood on a deck. Not like pressure treated lumber, but like, wood that like if you're building a deck out of cedar. Now fir is, I don't think fir has much natural water resistance, weather resistance. So you're gonna wanna seal it. Cedar, you can get away with not sealing it, but in any case treat it like, basically like a deck. However, I would ask an expert in your area for a good product recommendation. Chris says, "So the best way to cut a clean triangular hole in the middle of a board, about three by three by three?" I would lean toward making a router template. I would make, I would make the triangle. And the way I would probably do that is not by trying to cut that triangle, but I would take a piece. So let me just, you can stay right there Jenny, I'll be right back. I would get three pieces of wood. So if you want to end up with a three by three triangle I would start with a piece of wood and then we could figure that out. What if it's three sided, it's 120 degrees, right? 360 divided by three. And then joined to it like you cut this end at an angle, maybe put pocket holes in it join that to this one and then figure out what you need for this one and join that. So using three separate pieces make the triangle that you want and then use a probably a pattern style router bit and tracing that you get most of the waste out. And what you won't get is we've got sharp triangular corners but the router bits gonna leave those internally rounded and then finish that with a hand chisel is probably the best way to get those corners sharp. You could trim 'em. You could start with something like a jigsaw to get close, and then just barely skin it, barely skin it with a chisel in order to finish it. But that'd be my advice. I'd get as much waste out of there with a router as I could. Did you hear that sound? I just ripped my pants getting on the- remind me not to walk away from the camera. I just ripped my jeans. Getting up on the bench caught on a piece of metal. "Is pressure treated wood safe to use for a raised vegetable garden bed?" I don't know. You need a better expert than I to answer this one. My gut would tell me that stuff could migrate chemicals could migrate from the green treated lumber into your plants. See if a university in your area has got an ag- agricultural extension that you could call and get that straightened out. Tim says, "Trying to mill door casings in Red Oak using a large router bit three inches tall getting a lot of chatter and waviness using lots of feather boards, unable to totally eliminate the chatter, any suggestions?" Lighter passes would be the other thing, if you're making, I mean, if you're making door casing, which is what it says, generally like a ranch style door casing ends up about three eights of an inch thick. That's pretty thin stuff. So make sure that you're doing it in really, really light passes. When you think about how a molder works, the material, the back of the material is right out of platen all the time. I don't know if you could create a similar setup on a router table where instead of only a feather board you've got a board of some kind, a fence basically behind the materiel so that as it's feeding through it, can't deflect away. That's probably what's happening. But I think the easiest thing to try first would be more passes, less material per pass. Dale says, "In your stains and top coats, did you say to use a pre sealer or do you add shellac over pine before you put on your stain?" Either one, I do it with dewax shellac but wood conditioner is designed to do just what you're talking about there which is to condition pine or birch or maple. So if you're gonna stain it, it doesn't get blotchy. But I prefer to do it with shellac 'cause I always have shellac in the shop I use it all the time. Pearly says, "Hey, from Mechanicsville VA, Virginia, 25 years since I use tools, I think I'm getting an overdose on George," It's quite possible. And I'm very sympathetic for you. "It seems like a great place to be learning." Good. I'm glad to hear that. Dave says, "Thanks for this opportunity to ask advice. What are your feelings about making your own joinery like wooden dowels, small tenons custom links and size for craft projects, as opposed to using standard sized dowels?" I wouldn't do it cause I wouldn't want to spend the time. My friend Paul, who also does a lot of work for GOA, Paul Mayer. He makes his own dominoes for his Festool domino which to me is like, are you kidding me? But he's got it down to a system and he kicks 'em out pretty fast. I buy mine from Amazon. I don't have, I have nothing negative to say about it. I just wouldn't want to invest the time when I can go on Rockler's website and order dowels. So that's just me, I'm gonna to do other stuff. Clestin's in Houston. Thomas is in Tacoma. Paul says, "I've got a Walnut tree that was cut down last fall and have some logs from it. 12 to 18 inches in diameter left them outside this winter in Ohio. What do I need to do with them to be able to make something out of them?" Send them through a saw mill. I mean, if you want planks, you need to get 'em milled. And the sooner, the better you wanna get 'em milled while it's dripping wet green. So if you don't have a saw mill, if you go on Wood-Mizer's site, W O O D M I Z E R. So Google Wood-Mizer. And when you get to their home page, they also act as a resource for people who have sawmills and we'll go out and cut. So you can use that as possibly a way to find a sawyer in your area or just Google sawyer in your neighborhood. But yeah, you need to get 'em to cut up into planks. Trevin asks, "What chisels do you recommend that are ready to go out the box or store without needing additional sharpening or grinding?" Boy. I don't know. I think, I mean, I'm assuming you mean bench chisels like for dove tails and mortises and stuff. I think everything I've ever brought into my shop and I don't- I'm looking at the drawer my chisels are in and I'm thinking do I have anything there that's relatively new? And I don't think I do. But I think everything I've got the deal is for most lathe chisels and bench chisels from the factory they have been ground, but they haven't been honed. Now that being said, I'm not a huge hand tool guy. So if somebody from the hand tool world wants to correct me and say if you buy, I don't know what, Lie-Nielsen bench chisels they come ready to cut. Now I say Lie-Nielsen because I bought a Lie-Nielsen plane and a block plane, and it did come ready to cut wood. I did not have to hone that. So you could explore that. And you could look at Lie-Nielsen's site and check their chisels and see if that's a promise they make, is you don't have to hone them. But the stuff I've bought has, everything I've brought in I've honed it before I've used it. Renald says, "Hi George from Rimouski, Quebec. What's your opinion on the Nova DVR lathe. It's a great lathe. I've got one. We use it in classes for years. The variable speed is great. Real robust. I've turned big bowls on it. I like it a lot. Mike is in Seattle. Bob says, "How do you adjust feed rate on an Axiom C N C?" Let me, could you go turn that Axiom on Jenny? Turn it on and home it. And then let's see, it's got a flash drive in it. Then once it's up and running, we can go back there and look at changing the speed on it. Oh, you know what? I unplugged it. Sorry. You'll have to plug it in first. Mike says, "Great sound." Good. "Best economical, dovetail jig?" I don't know about economical. I've got the Porter cable 4212. I love it. I've recently used the Rockler jig a lot. Work great. Very easy to use, intuitive. So either one of those those are both really good dovetail jigs. Greg says, "Trying to restore an old outdoor teak chair in the seat, which is mortise and tenon frame with slats, one of the slats is partially rotted away and not solid. Any reasonable way to reinforce or repair this without taking the frame apart?" I don't know. You know, I mean, they make this, they make that stuff, I've never used it where you can like rebuild, it's a putty you can use to rebuild wooden components like a column on a deck if the bottom is rotted out but the rest is sound. But I think that's all paint grade stuff. 'Cause it's gonna look like auto body filler when you're done. I can't envision it's mortise and tenon. Yeah. I can't envision how you could repair it nor can I really envision, how could you get a new one in there without opening up the frame? I mean, that seems, I don't know. I'd ruminate on that for a little bit before I pop the frame open to see if you can figure it out. But in all likelihood, the slats were loose, the frame was made and the frame was put together and they're captured in there and there's not gonna be any good way to do that. I think you're gonna have to open up the frame. "I'm building a new shop," yee-haw, "which will be 25 by 40" lovely size, that was the size of my old shop. "Any suggestions for general layout or is there a place to go for suggested diagrams?" We've got some stuff look in the upper right-hand corner, wwgoa.com. There's a search window and put in their shop layout work triangle. And there's some information there that'll help you. "I'm making cutting boards is Titebond 3 the right glue?" Jim says. Yes, sir. It is. Kenneth asks, "I bought a Piranha FX CNC, do you have a recommendation for a starter CNC router bit. I'm looking at the Freud general purpose and sign making." That would be great. I would start sign making maybe a spiral bit or two and you'll be good to go. "Do you have any videos on the lead dovetail jig?" Nope, we don't. I own one. And I'm teaching about it at weekend with wood, but no it's not something we've done a video on. Trevin asked, "Other than cabinets, do you prefer using a domino or craig system?" Well, that's two completely different things. If I'm building a chair I'm going to use dominoes if I'm making a face frame, I'm gonna use craig. So they're not, it's not interchangeable joinery technology. I'm gonna jump over to YouTube and have a quick look. Audio is better people are saying, that's cool. "Some mortising jigs," Greg says, "use a pin on either side of the base to self center. Thinking of using these as a pivot pin for fences to lock down, to prevent inaccuracy." I don't know what you mean. Pivot pins for fences to lockdown. Yeah. I'm sorry. I can't envision what you mean. "How do I keep the plate in my scroll saw?" Mindy says, "from bouncing the plastic insert around the blade." So it's not a good fit, it sounds like. Maybe put a little masking tape on the insert and see if you can tighten up the fit. So it doesn't bounce around out of there. Nikisha says, "I live in the UK. My table saw fence keeps moving when it's locked. What's a good fence?" The only aftermarket fence I've ever put on a table saw is Biesemeyer. And that's a great product. I don't actually, that was years ago, I don't know if it's still available today or not. You have to do a little poking around for aftermarket table saw fences. "I work on projects in a humid two-car garage, tips for keeping rust off my tools and saw blades?" Can you get the, Jenny, the glide coat out of the finishing cabinet please? And while she's doing that, I'm going to jump over here. "How do you mark or cut a log so you can re-saw it for spindle turning?" Mark or cut a log so you can- I don't get the connection between the re-saw. If you want to cut up a log. What I do is a couple of things. I think it was like on the second shelf up, brand new can there we go. So let's go back to the humidity question. Thank you. So this is the stuff I spray on my tools Bostik Glidecote, it's available on Amazon and it makes the tools more slippery and it seals them and helps prevent surface rust from forming. So, it's a great maintenance thing to do. And that'll really help you in the high humidity scenario. So with the log, then Jenny, could you get for me way by the red door is that L-shaped bracket I use on the bandsaw for cutting logs it's on the Rockler rolling table to your left. Yep. Either one of those. So the way I can do a log re-saw logs, logs to lumber is this is the stableizer, this is like an outrigger L-shaped three quarter inch plywood. It's got holes in it so I can put the log here put the whole thing on my work bench, put the log here drive leg screws into the log. You gotta have that. And that stabilizes the log and prevents it from rocking and rolling. That'd be very dangerous. You have to have the stabilizer. Then I use a chalk line and I snap a line from that end to this end and make the cut on the bandsaw following that. If you look on GOA "logs to lumber" we've got videos on that process happening on the band saw. Scott is in New Hampshire. "I glued red birch three quarter inch square face frame to baltic birch cabinet, looking for tips to keep the rotter level when I flush trim. Been using a one and a half inch pattern bit." Flush trim bit I think, pattern bit has the bearing on the top. Trim bits, have the bearing on the bottom. So, a couple things, I don't have a cabinet but I have a router. So when you're doing this, when you're flush trimming a face frame, if the face frame is three quarters of an inch thick, then don't have any more bits sticking out of the base of the router than you have to. So get this depth of cut. This projection as minimal as it can be. And the reason for that, is that, when you're routing, if this tips in toward the work then the more bit that's sticking out the more you just mess up your face frame. Now no matter what it's bad, but if there's a lot, if there's too much out. So if you're cut length on that bit is an inch and a half and you've got that whole inch and a half sticking out and you tip just a little bit, then it's gonna be a problem. Then, what I tell students to do in the cabinet making class is I find it's easier to keep the router flat with the handles this way than this way. So when I do this, this is the edge of my face frame. When I do this, I have a lot of pressure on my left hand keeping that down my right hand is really just along for the ride, easing that forward. The other thing is, don't try to walk and talk at the same time. So what I mean by that is if it's a long face frame then what I have people do is get their body position make sure the cabinet is clamped so it can't move on. You get your body positioned and then move your arms lose contact with the work. Then walk forward, engage against the work move forward until you run out of arms then come off the work, walk forward. So don't try to walk and trim at the same time because you're doing too much stuff and it's gonna increase the chance you're gonna tip. Then the other thing is, let's say let's say the cabinet is whatever, 18 by 28 and it's clamped here on the bench. What I have people do is trim the edge in front of them. Don't lean across the cabinet like this and try to flush-trim that side, 'cause it's too easy to tip this towards you. So keep the edge that you're trimming right here in front of you and that's going to help stabilize you. Michael is looking for the best way to make a spoil board for his CNC. MDF works great for a spoil board. All right, we'll do one other question and then we'll go look at speed control on that Axiom machine. Joe asks, "While ripping three quarter birch plywood at a 45 degree angle to make french cleats," en francais s'il vous plait, "I discovered my beveled pieces, between benson blade burn somewhat, brand new blade in my table saw why did these pieces burn and the left side pieces did not?" You're pinching? It sounds like you're pinching between the blade and the fence. I'm rereading. Yeah, it sounds like you're pinching between the blade and the fence. I would check your fence set up to make sure it's parallel to the blade. All right. Let's walk back, Jenny. I will. Oh yeah we have maybe a cord issue or is that- we'll figure this out. I think it'll go. And I'm gonna have you I'll gaff this for you so you can turn in that clamp direction, there we go. Hang on. Momentito. Okay. I'll be Huckleberry. And then if I scream, look at that, oh slow down cowgirl. I can zoom. Okay. All right. So the question was controlling feed speed on an Axiom machine. So I'm just gonna get to where I've got a tool path open. And when we do that, we get to this screen. And then I got to think a second. If I just hit- Nope. I gotta think. There. So when I hit run, it highlights that number. So what I want to do is come down here. Speed scale. Whoops. Hang on. I gotta think, I'm trying to scroll. I gotta remember how to do this. I haven't done it for awhile. Hang on. Hold please. Okay. There we go. All right. So run, pick your file. Then I can scroll down to speed and I can change that. So 1.0 is full feed speed. is half of full speed. So now when I run it at this rate, My X Y travel, sorry was I messing you up Jenny? My X Y travel will be slower. All right. All right. Beuno. Wait. Okay. Shop tour. Yeah, no extra charge. Hang on this cord's gonna nick ya. All right. All right. All right. As Matthew McConaughey says. Somebody says, "I've been doing woodworking for 20 years. Thinking about doing videos. How do I go about getting sponsors?" You got to do videos first and get a footprint in the marketplace. So people know who you are. The general consensus from like YouTube people is it takes two to three years to build up enough of a following that people start to look at you, like sponsors start to look at you. Scott says, "I built my shot five years ago, 60 by 30." Very nice. Oh, he's just brought up the empire table lubricant. Joe asks, "Is bigger, better with shop vacs?" Yeah. So when we bought the last shot vacuum for this place, I bought it based on what had the largest horsepower motor in it. And that one does have more pickup power. So I didn't really know. I guess I don't know what that is. It's a bigger fan. So it creates more vacuums. So it picks up better. I don't really know what the effect is of more horsepower, but it does, but it works better. "Hello from Drummondville, Quebec." I believe, Drummondville, isn't- or maybe it used to be- JessEm tool I think used to be in Drummondville. Gary says, "How's the Delta miter saw working?" It's been great. I don't know it's probably been a year and it's my main, it's my one miter saw. So it's been doing good. John says, "I feel safer hearing my table saw but concerned with ear protection." Yeah. I always have hearing protection on when I'm running any tools. So if the question is, should you wear it? Yes. I would definitely. I would definitely have hearing protection in. Ted says, "Why is he a video on everything except the scroll saw?" 'Cause I don't know anything about the scroll saw. I also don't have any videos on french polish, on serpentine drawer fronts. There's all sorts of things I know nothing about. "How many teeth per inch do you recommend on a bandsaw blade for re-sawing hardwood?" Four. If you're, when I resigned kiln dried wood I use a half inch, four tooth per inch Timberwolf blade for that. John says he's in Indianapolis debating between pipe clamps and parallel jaw clamps. Parallel jaw. They're expensive. However, it's one of these deals where it's like, what do people say like? Cry once, you know, write the check and cry once or something like that. What it boils down to, just tools in general save your pennies buy the best possible tool that your checkbook will allow and then you're going to have it forever and you're going to be happy with it forever. So, parallel jaw clamps. Their big benefit is the jaws stay parallel way less prone to bowing your work. And like I said, they're expensive but it's a very good investment. I'm scrolling a little bit. "I make my own baseboard and door casings using a horizontal router table. Are relief cuts on the back necessary?" I dunno, relief cuts on- I don't know why it would relieve the back on door casings. I don't think so. I mean, when I go buy commercially made moldings at a lumberyard or a box store, they're not relieved. So I don't think you need to. Brent says, "I got a job site table saw and a small shop. I can't get good 45's for miter corners on boxes. I have a router table, but worried about results." So he's asking about using a 45 degree chamfer bit instead of cutting your miters, chamfer your miters. I've done this a bunch of times, it works great. It's a great way to get really good miters. All right, we're caught up there. "Saw a video where you tested a Supermax drum brush sander is it worth the extra expense, do you still use it?" I don't have it here. I had it in my shop just for the purpose of that video. Is it worth it? If you do that kind of stuff, it was amazing. If you work with barn board a lot. Man. It was scrubbing bubbles, baby. It was so cool the way it cleaned up the material. And if you want to introduce a distressed finish it would be a great choice for that. What I'm intrigued by with it is not, let's see, not the wire wheel, but it's also capable of accepting a flutter sander, you know, abrasive fingers. And when I cut stuff like 3D artwork on the CNC, it would be cool, I think, to send it through there and have it very quickly sand that. So in any case, Supermax is a great company. So it's worth it if you need to do that kind of work. Series or sorry, Harry in Virginia is looking for advice on soundproofing, a basement shop. I would, my building construction days in terms of like doing this kind of stuff, not that I don't frame buildings today, 'cause I do. However, you'd be better off getting the technology information from a lumberyard who knows more than I. Fiberglass installation can provide some level of acoustic installation. The big deal is to create a barrier that separates like the space from the joist. 'Cause it's the rigidity of the joist as part of what transfers vibration. So the question in today's modern technology would be, what product, what newer products are out there today that I'm not aware of? That are good for isolating that acoustically. And that's- I would go to, you could try, a box store like Home Depot to answer that question, But two, I think like a lumber yard where they're selling to contractors on a daily basis would be a good place. "Using SketchUp," Dave says "pretty steep learning curve. Do you use SketchUp and how do you feel about using it for your plan?" I think I'm a good poster child for anybody can learn SketchUp. I had never, ever, ever drawn on a computer before started using SketchUp got help from friends with some tips and tricks. And today I use it all the time. All of the stuff that you see me build on videos probably for the last year. If you get the video and you see a plan it's in all likelihood a plan that I drew. I like it a lot. I think it's amazing. I found it to be, once I got going with it pretty intuitive and user-friendly, there are lots there's so much information out there with like "how do I blank in SketchUp?" You're gonna find the answer. So yeah, I like it a lot. I think it's well worth the effort to learn it. "Is Incra table saw fence good?" I don't know, I've never used one. Steve asked, "The Laguna 1412 ceramic guides thinking of the getting the Carter bearing. I find the lower ceramic guides hard to adjust. Carter's look easier." I've never used the Carters. I've still got, I've got the ceramics. I've got a 14 BX Laguna. And I'm okay. I'm fine with the ceramics. So I can't speak to the Carter's cause I can't do a compare and contrast 'cause I've never used 'em. Sorry. Trevin asks, "I got a Grizzly 14 inch extreme band saw with the riser block. Manual says it takes a three quarter inch blade. Is it safe to use a Timberwolf three-quarter inch blade?" I don't know why it wouldn't be. I don't really, I don't see- if it says you can use a three quarter inch blade. You can use a three quarter inch blade. "What about tension?" When you get a Timberwolf blade, Jenny, could you grab one for me please? There's a bunch of Timberwolf blades in a cardboard box. She's already spotted 'em, 'cause she's smart. I just need any one of 'em. Determined to not catch my pants on the bench again. Thank you. When you get a Timberwolf blade on the back it says tension instructions. Read those. So read the owner's manual for your band saw blade, right there, tensioning instructions. And just follow that protocol and then that's how you tension it. So it's really well laid out and easy to do. "Can butt hinges lie on the front side?" Then it says- I don't know what that means. "Can butt hinges lie on the front side?" Yeah, I don't know, I need a little more Dennis, I need a little more on the question. I don't know what the question is. Stan says, "The phrase 'Buy your last boat first.'" Yeah saying from when we were talking about tools and parallel jock lamps, "Spend the dough, get something good. You'll love it for a long, long time." "Is this going to be on YouTube?" Yup. It's always archived on YouTube and on GOA wwgoa.com. Joe says, "I've got a Delta one and a half horse dust collector with six inch hoses for my planer. I also have a shop vac where the five horse, two and a half for my table saw, should I attach the planer to the five horse shop-vac for better dust collection?" No, really both the table saw and the planer. So there are charts out there that tell you how many CFM, cubic feet per minute, tools require. Last number I saw on table saws there was around 400 CFM. Planers are around there, maybe a little bit higher. You're not gonna get that kind of CFM out of a shop- I don't think a shop vacuum is gonna keep up with the dust you're producing on a planer. You're better off with the dust collector. Great falls, Montana, Stewart asks, "Do you have plans available for the drill charging stand?" That was a project that platinum members on WWGOA built in sync with me. We did it over a six week period. Met live kind of in a format like this once a week for six weeks. So at this point that project is only available to platinum members of GOA. Greg says, "Totally agree with the benefits of parallel jaw clamps. It took me awhile to get over the price tag and buy some." So in any way, Greg is a big advocate of parallel jaw clamps, as am I. Joe says, "I did not use hearing protection," not I, Joe, "for many years 'cause I didn't like the way muffs felt. Had an acoustical tumor removed 20 years ago." Yeah. I always tell people to wear hearing protection. That's that's why you see me like in 90% of my life not just in the shop with these things hanging around my neck like this. Jenny's got a pair too because she works here. That's anytime tools are running, Jenny and I are wearing these and I am a big advocate of personal protective safety stuff. "I built the shop table is featured in your video. Unfortunately, I can't use it for an outfeed since my saw is a Shopsmith and the table raises or lowers." Yeah. If you're not familiar with them on Shopsmith table saws, the blade is in a fixed position and you adjust the height of the blade by changing the height of the table. "Any suggestions on modifying the table plan to accommodate a moving table height?" Yeah, I don't know. I don't know what you could put on the table. So maybe one way to do it would be build the table to the- like maybe the easiest way to do it would be build the table to the lowest setting build the outfeed table to the lowest setting you're gonna use the Shopsmith table at. Then build a series of platforms. So when I'm cutting three inch thick stuff on my Shopsmith the table is going to be here, on the saw and the outfeed table is gonna align with it. When I cut stuff, the table is gonna be here. Then I place a platform on top of the outfeed table, so it's still level. That would only be easier than trying to get the whole table to go up or down. That would probably be without thinking too much more about it, that'd probably be the approach I would take. Jerry says, "How would I go about soundproofing an Oneida V300 dust collector?" Build a little room around it, I guess? I don't know about on the dust collector itself what you could do. I have no idea there. That'd be a good question for Oneida. But I know a lot of people that when their dust collector's in their shop, they surround the dust collector with a room so they don't have to listen to it. And then I think what you want to do, but I'm not a hundred percent sure, is you want to have a way that air can return to your shop. 'Cause if your dust collector is pulling, whatever 1200 cubic feet per minute, you're pulling that all into that room where the dust collector is. And you want that air to have a chance to come back into your shop. So it's kind of like the cold air return on your furnace. You've got this going, you know a little, it's not convection because you're forcing it, but you've got circulation going. But that's something that could use a little bit more research because I don't know much about it. Gary says he's "finishing up a live edge table gonna fill the holes with epoxy resin. Can I put poly over the top of it without doing the whole top in epoxy?" Yeah, I think so. So I'm not a poly user. My finishing choice is a base coat of shellac, dewax shellac and I top coat with water-based lacquer and I've gone over epoxy numerous times. Shellac is the universal go between. If you- whenever you have a problem area if you put shellac over the problem area you can put whatever you want over the shellac. I would call the customer service line at the polyurethane company. Then this is, you know on finishing questions I'm always edgy because I don't want your project to come out kerflooey because of something I said. So I don't know for sure that if you've got a good sized epoxy patch and you poly over the top of it are you going to have any adhesion issues? And whatever, a year or two or five from now suddenly the poly is flaking off the epoxy 'cause it never stuck. I don't know. So I would call them and confirm. In my case, putting the dewax shellac in between gives me that layer that then I know the top coat of lacquer is gonna be okay. Thomas asks, "How soon until the next platinum project?" I don't know. We've had this question a couple times. Everything is submitted. The PDFs for it have been made. I think right now they're just working on scheduling. And part of that is, you know my schedule can be a little kerflooey when we're looking for six contiguous weeks or whatever it is five contiguous weeks where we can do our little live meetups. 'Cause I teach on the road quite a bit. So the short answer to that is, I don't know yet. Sorry, Thomas. Dave says, "I've got a rigid granite topped table saw, I was looking for a better way to slick in the granite. Seems to absorb what I apply. Any suggestions?" I don't know I'd still do the Bostik Glidecote. I guess. I don't know, I don't have any, I don't own anything that's granite. I own some stone that you might take for granted. Jenny rolled her eyes. Yeah. I don't know. I would try that. I would try the Bostik on there. I'm not sure. Hang on. Hang on, hold please. "There's a product called Dynamat used in the auto industry can put on the metal surfaces of a dust collector and should quiet that." So there's, Stewart's providing a little information for you there on site and quieting down your dust collector. Pearly says, "Coming back after selling some of my equipment I have a tiny area. I'm contemplating dust collection Not much room so what might I use for vacuum collecting?" Well, there's a lot of small dust collectors out there. Jenny, just give him a pivot toward the little Laguna that's on the end of the table saw. There's a cute little, there's a cute little cyclonic collector there from Laguna. So yeah, there's a lot of small stuff smaller stuff place that won't have a huge footprint. "What would you recommend for a beginner?" Oh, "What lathe would you recommend?" Too complicated a question. Depends on budget, space, size what you wanna do. "Video where you show the math for inset doors. Can't find the one for overlay." It should be on there. 'Cause I think we shot 'em one right after the other. So they would have released it about the same time. I don't know is the question for that one. Sorry Josh. I don't know. Oh then two questions down he says nevermind he found it. Good. Your thoughts about Lie-Nielson's tapered dovetail saw. I have never used it. So yo no say. John says, "Are you talking about shellac from the can at a big box store?" Well, yes and no. Jenny, could you get us a can of SealCoat please? Por favor. So there's shellac and there's shellac. When I'm talking about the stuff I use. Oh, I hope I didn't finish it. Maybe is it in the next section down if you open the other doors? It's a little, it's a quart can that I pour in the sprayer. That's- you can bring that one but then there should be another one that says, same company and it says "SealCoat" and the can, there we go. So there's shellac and there's shellac. When I'm looking for the product, muchas gracias, when I'm looking for the product I'm going to use as a basically a sanding sealer, an under a coat, I want this one. This is SealCoat by Zinsser, which is dewax shellac. When I go to a big box store and I buy shellac they also sell this. This I don't believe is dewax shellac. SealCoat is dewax shellac. So yes, it's shellac from a box store or a Rockler or a woodcraft, or whatever woodworking store. However, you wanna make sure that it's SealCoat shellac. And because then it's dewax. If it's wax shellac you're not gaining, you're not getting that, that magic of it can go in between anything in between any kind of finish and work for you okay. If there's wax in it. Let me shoot a thank you once again to Titebond for sponsoring. They are very, very good to us. "Looking to buy a joiner plane or combo. Price isn't an issue. What would you recommend?" I don't know anything about 'em. I mean, I know about 'em. I know they exist, but I don't own one, I haven't used one. Why don't you look up, John, Jay Bates, B A T E S. Jay's custom creations is his website. I'm pretty sure he just got one. I didn't even know what brand, but I think in the last I don't know, 60 or 90 days, Jay got a planer joiner combo. So you could look at his stuff and see if that's the case. Then at least it gives you kind of a statistical one there. "Best wood to make a six foot step ladder to get into a loft for kids?" Definitely hardwood. Hard maple would be a great choice. Something that's plenty strong, very rigid. "Any rules of thumb on expansion and contraction?" Of me? like putting on weight you mean? Oh no, probably in wood. "Beginning a project and concerned it will self-destruct in the next year or two." Yeah. I mean, rule of thumb is you gotta let it happen. You can't try to restrict it. Wood is gonna expand, especially what in DC you have pretty humid summers, right? Anytime you've got a wide expanse of wood you're gonna have significant expansion and contraction. Let it be, let it happen. Don't try to prevent it. All right. We are sneaking up on eight o'clock. "When building a chair seat to be sculpted. Do you have a preference on joinery method strictly glue versus floating tenon?" If you're talking about like just gluing up a slab just glue a lot. If you've got a good glue joint, if you've got a good joint glue alone is plenty strong and you don't have to introduce any kind of loose tenon. All right. We're gonna do one more. "Have used a CNC to plain slabs too big for the planer, joiner. Any tips or tricks? Last question." It's pretty cool. We had just in looking at the number of people watching we hit almost 450, just a little while ago. That's pretty amazing. I've done a lot of leveling on the slab, on the CNC. So yeah, just when the board goes on the CNC stabilize it. So it doesn't rock. And then it's just like your fly cutting your spoil board. It's the same process. So if it's got a high point, do your zero at the high point and then go from there and just treat it, like I said it's basically exactly like doing your spoil board. If you're in the Chicago area, I am going to be at the Orland Park Rockler store a week from Saturday on Saturday, March 23rd. I'm gonna be at the Orland park store at 9:30 in the morning, doing a little CNC overview. I believe we have allowed three hours for that 9:30 to 12:30. So stop in and we'll talk CNC or woodworking or whatever you want to chat about. Other than that, thanks to young Genevieve here, my daughter, for running the camera. Thanks to Sam behind the scenes for making it all go. And we will see you. What are we in... March? We'll see you in April. When we do this all again, See ya.