George Vondriska

No-Drip Wood Glue

George Vondriska
Duration:   5  mins

Description

George Vondriska shows the advantages of using no-drip and no-run wood glue on your woodworking projects. With no-drip wood glue you can eliminate the messes some wood glues create during the assembly process. You’ll be able to avoid glue running down the sides of you’re the most complicated woodworking projects, like the tapered display cabinet seen in this video.

Titebond No Run, No Drip Wood Glue provided by Titebond. For more information, visit www.titebond.com.

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3 Responses to “No-Drip Wood Glue”

  1. Glen Hirshberg

    I see on the finished project that u have through tennons but they r not present on your glue up. How did u do that?

  2. Keith Mealy

    I like the No-Run No-Drip glue -- it's great on short grain joints such as miters. I suspect it also works well on "butt and biscuit" joints (AKA T-joints) where the biscuit is glued to the end grain of one piece. However, why not let gravity work for you and not against you as far as drip avoidance? Insert the biscuits in the loose side piece first. Then add glue to the shelves' slots while they're open at the top then set the side onto the top edge of the shelves. It may not make much difference, but it also gets the biscuit fully set into the side that needs it most, the one with end-grain glue surface. How to you cut the biscuit slots at 3 degrees or are they at 0 (i.e., 90?) and just sit in the pieces at an angle to the joint line? Also, I've noticed in the last two videos that when you do biscuits, you just add the glue from the bottle. Do you ever have failures? I usually take a craft stick and smear it on both side walls of the mortise and remove the excess. so it doesn't squeeze out. [Or maybe "I'm over-analyzing?"]

  3. Ray Epps

    George, I noticed that you still had squeeze-out though.

This cabinet is a little bit tricky to put together. It's got a lot of pieces. It's got a taper to it. The shelves are also graduated in dimension front to back. So what I wanna do is give you some tips so that when you run into a complicated assembly like this one, I'm gonna give you some tips that are gonna help you prevent glue from running all over the inside of the project and making a huge mess. The assembly on this tape or display case sure is a complicated thing. So what I'm gonna do here is apply glue to the slots on this piece and all of these ends. Then we're gonna remove this component, which is one side, all the shelves already glued and fixed together. Then we'll apply glue to the other side and their biscuit slots, flip this whole assembly over, get everything in place. So one of the things I wanted to talk about was making sure you're using a glue that lends itself to this. Cause think about what's gonna happen when this part gets in the flip over stage. Those biscuits are gonna be kinda upside down over the other piece. What I don't want is glue just fallen willy-nilly under that other component. I'm gonna have to clean all that up. So if you have a look at the glue marketplace, there are glues out there that have very limited running and dripping capabilities. They're just a thicker body to glue. Great choice for what we're doing here. So that, like I said, we don't have glue running willy-nilly all over the place. So what's gonna happen is glue in the slot glue in the slot, glue in the slot, get the biscuits in, and get this out of the way. And got a lot of gluing to do so I better get to it here. And then we just keep on keeping on here. All right, now here's the upside down part of the operation. So I'm gonna grab that whole thing, flip it over, set it on here, start to align the biscuits in the slot. So this is where the lack of drip ability is really gonna pay off. So I don't leave a big icky mess on this thing. I think we should put the narrow shelf at the top of the cabinet, but that's just me. Let's see what we can do here. All right. Now, just gonna manipulate parts. That went better than it had a right to. Everything is in, I'll start putting clamps on here. Use calls where I need to to get everything to close up nicely, check my reveal at the front to make sure it's uniform all the way down, and this part of the assembly on our tape or display tower it's gonna be all wrapped up. That's a lot of clamps, a lot of clamps, a lot of work to get those together. Now here's how this whole thing shook out. As I tightened up the clamps on the shelves, I used a three degree gauge block to make sure that the shelf was going in at the right angle. If any of them weren't angled just right, tweaking the clamp position just a little bit is enough to pull that to where we want it in order to make sure that the angle matches up. Additionally, I used calls underneath in order to make sure I was pulling the case side firmly up against the end grain of our shelves. And then you saw playing card in here earlier. I'm using playing cards in the center of the calls to force those cards to make contact in the middle of the side first, closed the center. And then as the call continues to get drying up, it closes it up here on the outer edges. So, that I'm pleased to say is in clamps good to go needs to just rest comfortably until the glue has a chance to dry and takes care of the assembly of the taper display cabinet.
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