Pocket Hole Joinery: Beyond Face Frames
George VondriskaDescription
Leg to rail construction is a very common part of building furniture. There are lots of ways the joints can be created, but few are as quick and easy as pocket holes. And, there’s plenty of strength in a pocket hole joint. It’s common for a leg to rail joint to have a reveal, an offset, between the face of the rail and the face of the leg. In this video we’ll show you a dirt simple way to build an offset into your furniture projects.
Edge-to-Edge Glue-Ups
If you’re making furniture, you’re probably also making things like table tops. For these, you need edge to edge glue ups. Not enough clamps to do the glue ups you need to create? No problem. Pocket holes to the rescue again. Put pocket holes along the edges that you’re putting together, and you can use pocket hole screws to draw your edge to edge joints closed.
Blind Case Sides
When you’re building cabinets and have a blind end, one that goes against a wall or another cabinet, pocket holes will help you save on clamp use again. You can cut pocket holes in the case side at the front edge, and use pocket hole screws to pull the face frame against the front of the case. This approach frees up clamps, and also means you can keep working with the case without having clamps in the way.
There are lots of ways to join wood in addition to pocket hole joinery, so check out more videos on joints and joinery. And, if you want to mask your pocket hole joinery, there are also techniques for hiding screw pockets.
More Info
For further details on the Castle 100 Pocket Hole Machine visit www.castleusa.com.
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10 Responses to “Pocket Hole Joinery: Beyond Face Frames”
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I don't have a lot of clamps as I do not do large work often but when I do I use pocket holes AND biscuits joints at the same time. This helps to line up and strengthen joints without clamps.
When using pocket holes in cabinet plywood side panels, do you have recommendations as to how to prevent screws from over-penetrating through the soft inner layer of the plywood? Unlike solid hardwood face frames, I find the screws penetrate deeper than hardwood, and therefore the tips project out past the inside of the panel.
Why was George using a hand drill on each pocket hole after it was drilled, please.
What is that pocket hole machine?
<strong>ticket 19320 In this video, George is using a Castle 100 pocket hole machine. I am considering the purchase of a more automated pocket hole jig. How would you compare this machine to the Kreg Foreman machine? If you are using the Castle 100 machine can you use Kreg pocket hole screws?
This video has something that I have seen several times. George is demonstrating something on the work bench and a banner appears right on top of what we are looking. I know that the banner identifying George is important, but not right on top of the demonstration. Thanks for all the work that goes into the videos, managing this very fine site, and for reading my complaint. Paul
I don't have a pocket hole machine, but I use pocket holes lots. I use a pocket hole jig set purchased at lowes for about $30.00. It works great.
You screwed the top of the stool to the rails on all four sides? Does that eliminate the ability for the wood to sufficiently expand and contract?
Thank you for the video. I do have a question: You said at the end you used pocket screws to attach the stool top. So you don't need table top fasteners instead? (Just a note, you saved my life with perfect timing as I was building a 7 foot wide, all Walnut dog kennel for my in-laws when I received an email with your Table Top Fastener video. The top was made of $270 worth of Curly Walnut which was beautiful. My plan was to use pocket screws. Thank you for the table top fastener video. My friend made a beautiful farm table for his wife and pocket screwed the top on. It cracked in many places when the weather changed. I can't thank you enough!!)
You used two kinds of glue, different woods?