When I first opened my woodworking school, I did not have a miter saw in it. We did all of our crosscutting on the table saw using a good quality miter gauge. Now, the key to making that system work is that you have to have the miter gauge set up correctly. Once you do, you have basically turned your table saw into a sliding miter saw with big capacity, as long as the miter gauge is doing what it's supposed to do. So, here's what I mean by that. We wanna make sure that the miter gauge is cutting perfect angles every time. Now, it's real tempting when you're setting up tools like this to take a good quality square, put it against the miter gauge, put the head of the square against the blade. Couple things I don't like about that. The big thing is that, what I really wanna know is how this performs when I'm cutting not how it performs when everything is sitting still. So, whatever dynamics are involved when the table saw is running, I want 'em to be involved when I'm setting up the miter gauge. So, one way that people will do test cuts is to put a board in the miter gauge, cut an end square, and then test it. What I wanna do is take advantage of what I would call cumulative errors. So the way I'm gonna set up the miter gauge is, I'm gonna angle it to 30 degrees, create a six-sided object. And that has the effect of magnifying the error that I have so that I can really fine-tune the miter gauge and get it just right. So, first step, let's get the miter gauge pivoted out to 30 degrees. I'm gonna lock that in. Now, what I need to do is plug my saw in, and I'll get one end of all six pieces cut to that 30 degree angle. With one end of every board cut, what's key now is that we get every board exactly the same length. So, this is the benefit of a stop on a miter gauge, like this one. I'm gonna slide this over so that when my material goes against it, it's gonna lock it in place and I can get all these parts to exactly the same length. Now, when you do this, one of the things to be aware of is that we have a sharp knife edge here on this cut. So we wanna make sure that that knife edge can't creep under the stop. So you wanna make sure that like this one, once that stop is in a closed position, it's gonna stay there and not slide up that angle. Now, I'm going to come back and I'm gonna cut all the other ends off, and then I'll show ya how we actually check the setup on the miter gauge. What that gives us is six pieces, all cut at exactly the same angle, all cut to exactly the same length. We can use these to use that cumulative error idea and find out just how accurate our 30 degree cut was. I've got all the boards cut and I wrapped them in a band clamp here so that I can put that whole circle together and see what I've got. Now, here's what's happening. I've got a bunch of seams on here that are absolutely perfect, five of the six. And the way that it happened is, I kind of manipulated the board as it went into the clamps. On seam number six over here, it's touching at the bottom of the seam, but it's open out here at this end of the seam. Now, this is what's cool. This is the cumulative error business. This gap right here is the net effect of six seams being off just a tiny bit. So, this is just a tiny, tiny error. The error is actually 1/6th of the amount of daylight you can see right there. So if we had only caught one board and put a square on that one board, that'd be such a tiny amount, you might never see it, but this magnifies it. So, at this point, what you do is, follow the manufacturer's instructions, tweak your miter gauge. You cut all the boards again, both ends of every board. Use your stop again to make sure they're all the right length, put 'em back in the band clamp and get everything set up until that error goes away. So this one's gonna need just a small adjustment. Now, what's cool is that with a good miter gauge, once we've got that set at 30 degrees, I can toggle this back to 90, 22 1/2, 45, whatever angle I need, and have that same accuracy that I had at 30 at all those other angles. So it's definitely worth taking the time and once you have this set up, it really should be a once in your lifetime thing. So, take your time, do it right, and make sure that your miter gauge is accurately cutting and providing all the accuracy it can for you on your table saw.
I have a Dubby sled for cutting miters and have no problem even with 12 sided (or any # of sided) object having perfectly accurate miters. I got rid of my incra miter gauge
'Morning Mr Vondriska...I just viewed your video on fine tuning the miter gauge...And not to be critical, but there's a few points that need to be addressed. I agree 200% about the cumulative effect...however...your first "set" of cuts to establish the first 30 deg angle was made with hand pressure, not a positive stop, and that is critical. A proper set up requires as little "chance error" as possible, which could happen with "creep" while cutting the first miter. The 2nd miter was correct with the positive... but the "knife edge" you mentioned is now a wedge and will most likely work itself behind the stop minutely..these are best done with an adjusting screw in the end of the stop, which will contact the miter up the cut a titch,say 1/4", which eliminates the "wedge" effect. And the cumulative effect is the result of 12 cuts, 6 joints 2 sides. And the result you ended up with, a less than hairline space, is amazing, everything considered. I believe if the same test was made with these adaptations, that space might be gone. And the whole presentation is a testament to investing in good equiptment...when the gauge is set at 30 deg, are the numbers and detents on the gauge accurate? Obviously pretty close!! I mean the space that was left, divided by 12, becomes practically immeasurable! Really, how many of us work to 4 decimals tolerance? Please continue the great work that you do....Jack
I enjoyed the video and appreciate the technique of magnifying the error to check accuracy. t was a little disappointing there was no instruction on how to actually correct the miter gauge error, though. The statement "follow your manufacturer's instructions" is a bit like passing the buck. I think a couple how-to tips for making the actual corrections would have made a "good" video a "great" one.
Hi George ! Thanks for the video. That was a cool way to check your miter gauge. Are you familiar with the 5 cut method from William Ng ? I think it might be a bit easier and straightforward to get the amount of error as you measure with a caliper. Just a thought.