WWGOA LIVE! August 2018

Here we are Thursday, Jenny, right, it's Thursday, somewhere? And it's seven o'clock central time. So we should go live. It was funny. I just, Sam is the person behind the scenes, running the board and she texted me just a second ago and said three minutes to L-I-V-E which of course she meant three minutes to live. She was giving me my warning. But of course it reads like three minutes to live. It's like a horror movie, two dogs on the shop or suddenly I got a text indicating I have three minutes to live. Isn't there a movie like that, Jenny? It's like, oh oh-- Three minutes to Texas No, no. all the main characters die of something like. In three minutes? Well, no, but they have the accidents but then they avoid-- Final Destination. Final Destination is sort of what I'm thinking of. But I think I actually missing the plot altogether. So anyway, rather than movie reviews and pop culture let's talk about woodworking stuff. First thing, Titebond is our sponsor, and they are responsible for bringing these shows to you for Nada or Mahalla, as they used to say when I lived in Africa. And something for nothing is good. Got a couple questions lined up here. So let's make tracks. George asks what a great name. George asks, looking to buy saw blade sharpening tools for home shop use, any suggestions? We'll handsaw is is a triangular file in a saw set. If that's what you mean. And that's, I'm not a huge hand tool guy. I did sharpen handsaws when I was teaching hand tool working in Africa, but not extensively. And that was like twenty-five years ago. So other people can give you better advice on that. If you're talking about table saw blades, that is not something I would sharpen at home. I mean, let's, we'll take this in a couple of directions. If what you're thinking of is you can take a 10 inch saw blade and a diamond stone cause diamond will sharp carbide, and hone each individual tooth, not a good idea. Really, really hard to get the teeth uniformly honed doing it that way. When they do this in industry, it's a very cool machine, the saw blade cogs over, it indexes over, sharpens the tooth, indexes over sharpens the tooth. Whatever they take off one tooth they make sure they take off all the teeth. So if you're talking about miter saw blades, table saw blades, circ saw blades, I would send those in and have them professionally sharpened. If you want to go in that direction of having a professional type sharpening set up in your own shop, there's a big name in that industry, and maybe by the eight o'clock I'll think of it. If I think of it later I'll write it down in the answer here. Shoot. It'll come to me later. But there is a company that's very well known in the sharpening industry that makes sharpening the equipment that gives you that indexing kind of stuff. Ron asks, I was gonna build a flag case out of Ancient New Zealand Kauri wood, have you ever worked with this wood? And if so, do you have any suggestions or hints that I should be aware of issues I might encounter? So I have worked with kauri and I'm going to talk about it 'cause this stuff is amazing. I'm just looking to see if I have any, I have to, where is where do we have the kauri bowl Is it here, or have you seen it Is it dark? at my house? Is it dark wood? Yeah, it's that really, really red. So here's the, I think the bowl is at my house. Here's the deal with kauri if you folks are not aware of this. It's amazing, it comes from New Zealand. Kauri trees can be, eight feet in diameter, easily, 1200, 2000 years old. And then we're not to the amazing part yet. The amazing part is that a long time ago, a lot of these trees died and they topple over and they fell into a bog. And what's really cool about the bog is that it's an anaerobic environment, meaning no air. So these monster big logs have been swamped in this bog for a really long time. And when I say really long time, I mean really long time like 50 thousand years. The chunk of wood I turned the bowl out of, was 50,000 years old. Now the skeptics in the group might say, yeah, whatever, How does anybody know? I know people who have had the material carbon dated, and it's been accurately shown to be that old. So what's happening in New Zealand is they're taking equipment and they're pulling these already dead already gone trees out of the bog and their machine, they're milling them into boards we can buy. and you can buy Kauri wood. It is not inexpensive. The piece that I bought the bowl blank I bought which was about three by 12 by 12 was over a hundred dollars. It has, kauri is a wood that can be incredibly dramatic. Like I think they call one detail, silver fish, which is white dots. The wood kind of looks like mahogany. It's about like Honduras mahogany, it's about that color. They can have incredible flame in it. It can have these white dots in it. You can have incredible grain patterns. So I've seen places sell it as high as $300 a board foot. So. Working with it. Here's the deal, Rod. It's pretty soft. Like push your thumbnail in it soft. When I was sanding my bowl, on the lay, I found I had, I couldn't use paperback sandpaper, 'cause even when I was being careful and holding the abrasive against the wood, if any part of the paper was trailing, it would very easily leave a scratch than someplace else. So in the end, I had to sand with a sponge. But workability, very similar to the Honduras mahogany. About that same hardness. It finished great. I would recommend a grain filler on it. I've been using Aqua Coat grain filler, it's a great product, cause it is a pretty porous wood. But it's not splintery, it's not, it's not hard, maple hard . So overall pretty easy to work, with real easy to in general, easy to sand. Just be careful you don't, over sand it, 'cause it's pretty soft. You'll have a blast working with it. It's a very neat material. Gary says you, hi, warned in a video about cutting on the table saw against the fence when the distance from the blade to the fence is less than the length of the board contact. That's opposite from, and we'll talk about that. You said there were several ways to make repeated cuts to length when this was the case. What are they, please? Really interested in this for boards too wide for my miter saw. So let's, let's head to the table saw Jenny and, first we'll walk through the safety rule and then we'll go through some setups. We've never gone to the table saw. No not for a long time. Can you scoot in I'll move the workbench a little bit, 'cause you're going to need to be more straight on. Castors are a wonderful thing, are they not. I just, I just rolled about a 600 pound work bench out of the way, so Jenny can manipulate the camera. So to get at Gary's question here. First, let's do this. The rule he's talking about, and it is in the question, let me read it again. Warned against when the distance from the blade of the fence is less than the length of the board contacting the fence and that's stated incorrectly. The real problem is when the distance from the blade to the fence exceeds, is greater than the length of material against the fence. So. You've got this piece of three-quarter inch plywood and you want to turn it into shelves. This is not a safe cut to make. So, the length, the distance from fence to blade, I'm sorry. The distance. Yes, the distance from fence to blade exceeds the amount of material against the fence. What can happen here is that, as we move forward there's a lot of leverage over here, a lot of torque, and an opportunity for this to start to cock off the fence, climb up on the blade, leads to kickback. So, when the rectangle is longer in this direction than it is in this direction, don't do that. So then one of the things, yeah, we have two dogs in the shop tonight, so that's not Jenny barking. That's Meghan's dog. My other kid, Jenny is dog sitting Tonks, Meghan's dog, here he comes little camera dude. There's Tonks the Courtney. I can't pick her up. Huh? I can't pick her up. No. And Vita is Jenny's dog. So they're playing a little bit and barking. So, alternative methods, we can use the miter gauge. I gotta grab mine. So one thing we can do with a miter gauge is, miter gauge and the fence, and let me let's see, I'm going to do, I'm gonna to swap miter gauges here so I don't have actually use a fence. Okay. So one way we could do this is miter gauge and a fence, but we have the same problem here, don't we? Because fence, blade, miter gauge. So what I do in that case is I have in my hobby case the piece of material that's exactly an inch thick, I clamped that to the fence Then I can direct meet, read my fence, plus an inch. So if I want to cut a bunch of shelves that's 22 with this one inch block, I would set my fence to 23. Now I can come over, I can kiss the, kiss the block. It's clamped in place, as I move forward, I'm no longer in contact with it. So a stoplock on the fence is one good solution. One of the things Gary specifically asked about is gonna go back and look material that is wider than what he can cut on his miter saw. So let me show you that 'cause I've got a great approach for that. And Jenny, I think I'm gonna have you come in and tilt down. So here's the pieces. We'll cut this piece right here, it's a great example. This piece is maybe I don't even have a ruler on me, 16 inches wide or so. I could not do this on my miter saw. Additionally, if I put my miter gauge on, a bunch of this is going to be hanging off this side of this, so you gotta tilt up a little bit. Just let the dogs run around and they'll be, they be noisy and stupid and fun. And so right now the blade is about ready to contact my material, but the miter gauge is off this side of the saw. That's no good. So here's a great way to cut this really wide stuff. Turn your miter gauge around, so it's backwards. And then push your material against the fence, here we go. A little bit of hearing protection. Sorry, it took me a second to get my ears in. I do this. I have a sliding miter, I have a sliding table on my table saw, but this is so fast to grab the miter gauge, turn it around backwards. The big deal here, the thing to remember is hold these tight. Hold the material tight against the fence. Because fence is here, blade is pushing on the material, we don't want it to creep off of the fence. So give those a squeeze, push them here together. That's my favorite way to cut, cross cut wide stuff on the table saw. All right, Gary says is a router table better than a table saw for jointing if you don't have a jointer. Yep. Yeah, router tables are a great way to go. We've got articles on WWGOA, I think a couple of them, plus probably a couple of videos about setting up your router table as a jointer. Definitely better than the table saw. Point me to resources for building entry and passage doors. When building a large door, how to keep them from warping? So I, this is David. David, I've only done a little bit of this. I would check with Freud. They make a set, they make an entry and passage door set. They're pretty good about customer support information, videos, whenever they can. And I would see what resources they have on the setup and just like general tips. As far as keeping them flat. This is tough. You need to really make sure your material is stable. You know, you think about it. If you're making an entry door, it's probably an inch and three-quarter thick 36 wide, six eighth long, that is a big slab of wood. So you really want to make sure the material is stable, that you bring it into your shop well in advance of when you're going to use it and give it the opportunity to acclimate to your shop. For those of you that aren't familiar with this, Jenny, I'm going to grab something. Why don't you, I'll come back to the bench. So maybe just point us, point us to Titebond and do a commercial. Tell people something. That's not something. Here are our dogs. Shop dogs. All right, man. Do you want your mic in? No, I, well, how's the audio folks. Yeah, I forgot to plug in the shotgun mic. So somebody leave us a comment quick about is the audio good? And if, if it seems a little inky, we'll put the shotgun mic in. And Give that a try. So if you're not aware of what David was asking about there are router bit sets that allow you to work with much thicker stock. This is an inch and three quarter maple. And this is designed to do both sides, 'cause this is what an entry or a passage door would look like. On this end, if I can get this apart, well you can see it here. It produces a crazy long tenon on the end of the rail that goes into the style cause we need way more support than just a cope and style joint here. So these router bit sets, these are really neat. And it's if you're looking at making your own door not cabinet doors, entry and passage doors, this is this is the way to go. All right, I almost, Gatorade time 'cause I'm getting dry. Douglas says, No I've got one right here, thanks though. Oops. I have an older Craftsmen 10 inch tabletop bandsaw I've been trying to find a replacement miter gauge and rail for it. Nine 16 by a quarter or three 16ths, all the ones I find are three quarter by three-inch. Yeah, I don't know. You might want to look at there's a Microjig product, I'm looking for a jig it's on. You stay here, I'll be right back. This is a, this is an aftermarket market track system from Microjig, right here. And the way it works is that there are two components to it. When the screws are loose, I can slide this piece independently of this piece, and there's a taper on them. So that makes them wider or narrower. They're called true fit. I believe, Microjig True Fit Tracks, I think is the name. It's definitely Microjig, but I might have the product name wrong. Look them up online and see if that will go as narrow as nine 16ths, I don't know if it will or won't. Other than that, boy, that's small. You might, if you really need a miter gauge, you could make, you could make a bar quarter sawn hardwood is the best thing to use for that. Something like hard maple. You could go to a machine shop and ask them to just make the bar for you, and then you could add a wooden fence of your own to it. But yeah I don't have any sources for you there, Douglas, sorry. John says, four days ago my table saw blade bit me on the thumb. I'm so sorry, John. My error and a minor injury, thanks to your video on blade height. Well, that's good to hear. Thanks to your video on blade height there was only a bit above the wood and the injury is healing. Thanks for safety tips as well as how to's Well I'm happy to do that. You know, really with, with me teaching for so long, I've been teaching since 1986. So the safety aspect of woodworking you know, in here, in my shop, I'll have eight people in here for a class and I ride hurt on people really hard about making sure they're being safe. So, I'm glad that's helping everybody. Bill simply says, more on furniture. I don't not, more what, I don't know what that means. Scott says, hey George, I just got my first router and he names it, it's a Bosch. Now I'm looking for a table. Would you recommend the $500 Kreg with an MDF cord or the Rockler Pro Phenolic on sale for $450? I've got, I've got a Phenolic table here, and I've got the Kreg MDF table here. Oh, I'm coming back. Okay. The MDF table is dead flat, so I wouldn't have a problem with that. One of the things I would look at is, make sure, on some router tables, and I don't know this is true of a Rockler or of Kreg. A problem that I've run into is the hole in the table is too small or the opening in the fence is too small to allow a three and a half inch diameter panel raiser to come up through the hole or recess into the fence. I would check that spec. I think I've raised panels on the Kreg table, so I don't think that's an issue. The other thing I would look at is if I remember some tables are using Phillips head screws to hold the inserts in the table. Tables that do that, kind of drive me crazy, because I know I'm going to lose those screws someday. I've got a Woodpecker table here, I've got just some tables here also. And they use, they don't use screws. There's a tool that you turn and it locks the insert in place. So. I wouldn't, I find the MDF is just as flat as my Phenolic, so all things being equal, there's a couple other traits to look at, a couple other shopping ideas to look at, when you're comparing the table. Stan, thank you so much for weighing in, says Foley, that's the one I was thinking of, is a company that makes sharpening tools. So going back to, was that George's question? Going back to, yeah, George's question. If you are looking to set up table saw blade sharpening tools in your shop, fully, F-O-L-E-Y would be a company to explore. My iPad is being a little doggy. Oh, it wasn't a pun, but there are two dogs in the shop. Okay, here we go. Doug says, wanna make some basic cutting and chopping boards, simple enough, but what kinds of wood and more important, what should not be used? So, cutting boards stick with hardwoods, and then within the hardwoods. So hardwoods, North American hardwoods, the usual suspects are Oak, Maple, Walnut, Cherry, tropical hardwoods are fine as well. The biggest thing you want is woods that are not porous. So. Red Oak is a hardwood but it's also a very porous hardwood. And the reason we don't want the woods that are super porous is then stuff can get in the pores and stick in there and become unsanitary. So. stick with hardwoods and close grained woods. For me, probably my three favorite North American woods are Walnut, maple, and cherry for cutting boards. And then, like I said, the tropical stuff that has the same characteristics. Hard and closed grain would also be good. Isaac says I'm almost finished studying in high school. Congratulations. I want to start my own woodworking and woodturning business. Any subjects in particular I should study to make my business better. So, Isaac the advice you hear all the time is if you want to have a woodworking business and ended up with a million dollars, start with 2 million. Here's just a little advice, which isn't really what you're asking in your question, but I'm gonna give it to you anyway. I tell people this all the time, everybody that owns a table saw figures they have a woodworking business. Of course, I'm overgeneralizing, but and I'll say everybody with a circ saw thinks they're a carpenter. Everybody with a table saw thinks they're a cabinet maker. If you're going to start a business, I strongly advocate you look for a unique thing that you bring to the marketplace. So that could be maybe you have a skill where you say woodturning, you're really fast at turning bowls or spindles or whatever it is. So as a result, you can make money on that, 'cause you're way quicker than me. You're way quicker than anybody else. Or you have access to a material that other people don't have access to. Or you're ready to invest in a laser for your shop. So you can do value added on your projects 'cause you own a laser, not everybody owns a laser. But the key out of this is looking for a niche in the marketplace that makes you a woodworker beyond all the other workers out there. What to study? The more efficient woodworker you are, the better off you're gonna be. So I'd start by getting a job in somebody else's woodworking shop. I was a production manager at a really big cabinet shop. I learned a lot about how not to run a business by working with the guy who owned that place. And so that was very valuable for my business today. Today, I would look a lot at what can you do with the web? How do you sell items on the web, e-commerce, capitalizing on stuff like Pinterest, cross linking to sites that'll drive traffic back to your site. So I would look at how the internet can help you grow your business. How's that? That would be a good start? William says, what's with the bands around the three fingers of your left hand. So, William wins the bet for me, cause we were wondering, Jenny and I, how long it would take for this to happen. For somebody to ask. Totally unrelated to woodworking. I have a soft tissue, I have a ligament injury on either side of that knuckle and I said this on Instagram the other day, as much as I run chainsaws, fix my own cars, work in the shop this has nothing to do with any of those activities. So the bottom line is, the ring finger is buddy taped and it's being stabilized by the other two fingers to give these ligaments the opportunity to heal. So you're going to see me looking like this for at least three more weeks, and hopefully that'll take care of it. And then John weighs in, thank you, John. Foley-Belsaw is the sharpening company. Mohammed says, I made a few small cutting boards, maximum width of 12 inches, due to my planer, having trouble getting them flat, any advice? So like the door answer for David earlier, make sure that your material is nice and stable before you start cutting it up. Make sure that it has an opportunity to acclimate to your shop before you start cutting it up. When you glue stuff together, you really want to work hard to make sure you're gluing it flat. I am going to go and grab a clamp and I'm gonna, while I'm walking over there, I'm gonna to refresh my page so I can look for more questions. But, clamp selection can help you a lot, I'll come right back. There's Tonks. Bonus points for this crowd if they know what the name Tonks is from. What do you think, Jenny? I think anybody who's gonna, it's a little pop culture if most of the audience is my age. So when it comes, Mohammed, to clamping parallel jaw style clamps like this one are expensive. However, one of the things they do because this beam doesn't bow is they're very good at keeping your glue up splat. So whether it's a door or a cutting board or an edge to edge glue up for a tabletop, I use parallel jaw clamps whenever I can. When I first had my shop, I only own two of them. And I would glue, if I had 20 doors to glue I would do them one at a time in parallel jaws clamps 'cause they really help keep stuff flat. So, that's another thing. Stable wood, wood acclimates to your shop. Make sure that when you clamp, the glue up is staying nice and flat. I'm going to get my Gatorade. I'm going to thank Titebond again for sponsoring. And I also want to mention we've got a sweepstakes going out. So what I'm looking at my iPad, I'm looking at the, this is the landing page on WWGOA. And I gotta come back to that too in a second. And on that landing page, if I scroll up to the right spot, right here. Na, na, na, na, na, na, na, na, na, na, na. Where are we? Right there, it says sweepstakes. That's open until midnight tonight. We are giving away, in cooperation with Grizzly, Woodpeckers and Laguna, we're giving away a table saw, a router table, and a sander. So if you have not registered for that you might want to click link and register. The other thing I wanted to say for those of you watching on YouTube, And I'm so sorry that I often forget to mention this, I monitor the questions on GOA dot, wwgoa .com, where I can't also monitor the questions on YouTube because I only have so many fingers. So if you have a question you want to ask and you're watching on YouTube, go to the live show on wwgoa.com and videos is the dropdown menu. Then you'll see WWGOA live, then you'll see August, Then you can post your question. And that's, I'm only picking up questions from there. And as it is, it's all I can do to get through those. And I won't get through those, cause we always get more than I can answer. The drawing for the tools is tomorrow. So be sure if you're going to do the sweepstakes be sure you do that very soon. All right, now I gotta scroll 'cause I went up to the sweepstakes thing. Jim's question. Jim is watching from Colorado. Gregory says, I have an aluminum roller table saw S. I had aluminum roller table saw S. What is the best way to make adjustable legs? I'm not sure what the product is. What's the best way to make adjustable legs so I can use them as an out feet table for my table saw and router table. I have aluminum roller table saw S. I don't know what that is. Best way to make adjustable legs. So, anyway, let's just key in on the adjustable legs. I've pretty commonly on shop made stuff used, I'm coming right there. Again, adjustability in legs, two pieces of plywood, and they're going to end up face-to-face, like this. One of the pieces of plywood gets only a hole drilled in it and a hole drilled in it. Usually I use a three-eights carriage bolt is what's going to go through the hole. So you'll drill a three eighths hole. So, so let's say, use your imagination. Let me get a felt tip. So in this piece, I drill a three eighths hole and a three eighths hole. In the other piece, so we'll set that aside a second, in the other one, using a router, I make a three eighths slot, that's way over three eighths, and a three eighths slot. And of course, now that it goes all the way through. So then when we bring our other piece back picture if you will, with carriage bolts, fender washers, and wig nuts, when these two are together, this one can slide, or this one can slide up and down and that'll give you adjustability of height. I use that on a lot in different shop made stuff. So I hope that's what you were, I'm not sure what the first part of the question is but hopefully that's what you was asking. Halfway. El Camino Woodworks says what's a good method for getting rid of run out on the table saw? What kind of Bluetooth ear buds are you using asking for a friend? Sure you are. So first off getting rid of run-out, buy good table saw blades, I don't skimp on table salt blades. Plan on spending at least a dollar a tooth, and that's going to get you good carbine and flatter plates. If the bearings themselves have run out you maybe got to swap bearings, which would be the bearings on the arbor that's actually spinning the blade. Bluetooth earbuds, these are ISO Tunes Pro, and great product. I probably been wearing them, I think over a year now. Jenny's got a set. She wears as well when she works out and stuff. And when she's here in the shop. So the deal with them is, 27 decibels of hearing protection. So they, these are in my ears almost all day in the shop. I listen to music from my phone. If my phone rings, I can answer. And then they've also got a noise canceling feature. So if I'm talking to my kid, Jenny on the phone and I had these in and I'm running a shop vacuum while I'm talking, she can hear me talk but these will cancel out the shop vacuum in the background. So it's really a cool product. They are, and I'm forgetting, 80 or 90 bucks a pair. I'll put a link in here when we get, when I get done. I like them a lot. Eddie says, the audio is good. Darren says, Jim says so, it seems like we're okay, Jenny, with the ambient mic, without the shotgun. Okay. Donald says, what do you like the best for draw construction? Oh, for drawer construction, Dovetail or Duraline. Either one. It's not, it's not necessarily like the best, It's an it depends. If I'm doing a lot of drawers, especially like for, in the shop, Baltic Birch plywood, drawer lock bit, boom, boom, zing, zing. It is so fast. If I'm making a piece of furniture for me, for my kids, you know, a custom piece, I'm more likely to do half blind dovetails in those drawers cause they have a more classic look to 'em. Both are very, very strong. From a speed of drawer perspective, I'm pretty fast. I got the Porter cable, 42, 12 jig for Dovetails. So I can cut dovetails on that pretty fast, but I can make a drawer lock joint faster once the router bit is set up. So it's, it's not really a one or the other, it's a it depends. Yeah, a lot of people are saying the audio is good. Good, that's good to know. We can, we'll eliminate the shotgun mic. Doug says, what do you suggest to someone who wants to get into woodworking, but doesn't have any training? I recently retired. Congratulations. And I'm planning to get into woodworking, but wanna know the best way to get started. A lot of places offer classes and that's, you know so we do, obviously a boatload of video. We, me, my contributing editors, woodworkers skilled in general. So, couple things. Outside of me, maybe you don't like my style I get it. There are so many good content creators on YouTube. Jay Bates, Matt Cremona, April Wilkerson. Ann of all trades, I can't remember her last name, Briggs, I think is her last name. There were so many great content creators that, one, if you're okay with that learning style, finding those content creators on YouTube and watching their stuff is a great way to learn. However, there's nothing like being in a classroom, having an instructor there to watch you, correct your mistakes, because what I hate for people to do is develop bad habits on their own, and then it's so hard to correct those. And we talked about safety earlier. If those bad habits are unsafe habits, that's really, really bad. So I would strongly recommend Google woodworking classes. If you're in an area where there are Rockler or Woodcraft stores, call and see what they have for classes, 'cause they're both pretty aggressive with class offerings. If there's, what's called a Maker-Space in your area, Maker-Space can be a big shop that people share. See if they offer classes. So that and I would really look for hands-on classes, and then also even just if it's lecture demonstration type formats, that's a good way. See if there's a woodworking club in your area. I just taught in Indianapolis. Holy buckets to that for a club. Man, they have a lot of stuff going on. A lot of education within that club. So look in your area for a woodworking club and if there is one, join. So that'll give you a good jumping off point. Mike says, he's from Fond du Lac, hello fellow Wisconsinian. Have you ever met Mark Sommerfeld? Yep. Do you own any of his router bits? Yep. What do you think of his router bits? They're good. I've never had a quality issue with any of the Sommerfeld stuff. So, yeah I've known Mark, I don't know, I bet I known Mark 20 or 25 years, so. Mark says, figured woods such as tiger or Virgin maple tend to tear out when run through a planer or joiner. True. Is drum sander a good alternative especially for items like tabletops? Yeah, so. With highly figured woods, the good news is they're beautiful. The bad news can be that the grain is going in 8 million different directions. And if you face joint them or are you plane 'em, you can be, you know, it can be the very last pass and you're taking real light swipes and being careful but a bird's eye tears out. Or a piece of figured grain tears out. And that's a heartbreaker. So one of the benefits to a sander, a surface sander, or a drum sander is that it's cutting with sandpaper rather than knives. So there is, it's impossible for a sander to tear out highly figured woods. For me, I've got both, I've got a planer and I've got a Supermax sander. So if I'm at all conservative if I'm at all concerned about figure, I'm gonna send them through the sander long before the last pass, so that I don't have the opportunity for that stuff to tear out. So, yeah, it's a great, it's a great question, Mark, and a surface sander's a good way to go on that figured stuff. Dennis says, looking to acquire a cyclonic dust collector, is Grizzly three horse, a quality brand sufficient, Oh yeah, yeah I just don't know. I don't know that field well enough to answer the question. I would look for, Look for product reviews. Wood magazine is really good about doing tool tests. And I think Popular Woodworking still does tool test, but I'm not a hundred percent sure, but Wood Magazine does tool tests all the time. So look through their archive and see if they've got a tool tests on dust collectors. That's the best way to get a good opinion, in an objective, non biased opinion. Michael says, speaking of safety what's your take on SawStop products? They're wonderful, Mike. These days, I mean, I own a SawStop. I've had it since 2007. I'm pointing to it. I've never had a problem, mechanical problem with it. When people ask me today advice on what table saw should I buy? I always say, save your pennies. And if you can do it make every effort that was a dog that just burped, not Jenny. All right, Vita, you're a pig. Come here Vita so they can see you. Make every effort to just save your pennies and get a SawStop. They're more expensive than other saws, but they're way less expensive than a trip to a hand surgeon. So I always tell people they're a really good tables saw, that happens to also include the safety device of a break. They really did a good job coming up with that saw. Hang on, I'm scrolling. So while I'm scrolling I'm gonna remind you of a couple of things. One, if you're watching on YouTube, I don't monitor the questions there I monitor them on wwgoa.com. So if you want to post a question go to goa.com Two, thank you to Titebond for sponsoring. Three, when you get to wwgoa.com, the page where you're watching, right below the window where the video is, there's a banner that says, woodworking sweepstakes. We, in conjunction with Grizzly, Woodpeckers and Laguna are giving away, a table saw, a router table, and a drum sanders, speaking of sanders, it ends at midnight tonight. The contest ends at midnight tonight. The drawing is mañana. So make sure you, enter that thing, post haste. And so you have a chance to win. Roy says, what camera and microphone I've got a Canon Vixia something, is the model number on the side there? H F R 600. H F R I've probably had it five or six years. I use that for the live streams. I use a, Jenny and I both use Canon T6i DSLR to shoot video on. T6i. The microphone is a Rode or a Rode. How do you say it? Rode. Is a Rode shotgun mic. Wade says, you referenced wood grain direction when using a joiner does the same apply in a thickness planer? Yes. You've gotta brush the cat hairs. So let's do a visual on this. Do you want the dog for it? It's dog hairs though. Oh. Yeah I'll, yeah, I'll make, yeah, this will be funny. This will be good. Hang on. Which one do you want? She's eating. Hello, come here. She's eating wood. Come here, Tonks. Yeah dogs love me. Come here, Tonks. I know you're, you're new up in here. All right, so this really is gonna make sense. So we have a daughter, LPM I work with, why don't we pet the dog in this direction? She likes that, because the hair, the fibers laid down. When we pet the dog in this direction, the fiber stand up, and the dog doesn't like that as much same with cats, because the fiber stand up. When we joint wood or plane wood, we've got pet it, we've got to cut it in the right direction. And nobody's answering the question about where the name Tonks comes from thing, they just don't get the reference. Bonus points. All right. Here's what that means. Thank you, Tonks for the visual Your mom will be very proud you made it on the live show. Here's where we going. You may notice I don't take myself too seriously. If we're going to edge to joint, and we've got a piece of wood and a lot of times material is, like cathedral patterns to it, like that. So cutter head on the jointer, knives, this is the correct direction of feed because as the knives swing by, they're going to lay the fiber down, lay the fiber, cat hair. They're brushing the cat, brushing the dog in the right direction to lay those down. So it works out conveniently. Well, if it's got a lot of cathedral typically the flames point in the correct feed direction. When your edge jointing, I'm sorry, that is edge joint. When you're planing wood, then, awkward to handle, I need to make an easel, when you're planing wood, look at the edge of it. And often what you'll see is that the grain angles, So now in the case of a planer, the cutter head is above the word planer, knife, planer, knife, planer, knife. So, for this piece, is this the correct feed direction, so that we mitigate, we limit tear out and the answer is no. this is the, this would be the wrong direction. Because as those knives swing by they're going to lift the fiber, lift the fiber, and the symptom of lifting the fibers, that's the chip you see in the face of the wood. So this would be the wrong direction. We want to flip that around so that when it feeds through, we're laying the cat hairs, we're laying the dog hairs down. A really important thing, it's really important to look at your material before you're jointing or planing. Carlos says, nice sweepstakes. I hoped when you said Laguna it was a bandsaw. Yeah. I'm with ya, their band saw's a wonderful thing, but there's nothing wrong with the 1632 sander, What would a, Having a surface stander in my shop has like changed my woodworking life. It reduced my time with the random orbit sander by so much. Kirk says, when it comes to gluing, Tonks. when it comes to gluing, can you apply too much clamp pressure? Yes. All you need to do when you're clamping is close the joint. So you're sneaking up, you're clamping it. You're tightening it up. As soon as that joint closes, you're done. As soon as you see glue squeeze out, you're done. There's this notion that over tightening you can starve the joint for glue, because you're going to squeeze it all out of there, I don't think that's a thing. But I think what can happen is that by over tightening you can start to distort your material. So a door is a great example. If you over-tighten the door, you can introduce a bow. And if you don't catch it and get it back flat if you glue a bow into a door, he says from experience, you will never get the bow back out. So when, you're tightening, again, when I teach hands-on classes, it's always a hard thing to get people to stick with pun intended, to get them to understand, as soon as you see that joint close, you're done. It takes really very little pressure to close a joint. A good joint. Richard says, he loves the show and never misses it. Thank you, sir. Michael, I've seen your iron veneer to a substrate. Do you think that a chess board using veneer squares can be ironed? I think so. I might, for that, lean toward some companies make veneers that are, PSA, pressure sensitive adhesive on the back. I think 3M, I think it's 3M adhesive on the back of the veneer. I would consider that 'cause here's what I like about that. I think you could carefully cut all your squares. I'm thinking through the process, as I talk. You could conceivably, carefully cut all your squares, and then with that PSA on them, stick one down, put 'em in like, tiling a floor, put another one next to it, stick it down, put another one, stick it down Put another one, stick it down. And I think that would give you a better result than. Here's my concern with the iron is like, so you placed them all, What, maybe tape them together, I guess, but like, I don't want to square number one to move while you're ironing square number six. So I think I would try the PSA. Larry says, why not only use Titebond 3 and not worry about others? Costs. It's the only reason. So Titebond 3 is waterproof. We don't need that if we're building a cabinet that's going to be, live inside. However, there's nothing wrong with, you can use Titebond 3 for everything, because it's the most extreme glue that what I mean, it's capable of withstanding the most extreme conditions. So if you want to put Titebond 3 on everything, that's Smurferific. It's just that in a cost per ounce, I think it's the most expensive Titebond product. That'd be the only reason to not do it. Gaslag says I watched a video on wood working safety, in general, that you did, but I can't find it now, I searched safety, but it didn't come up. Any suggestions on how to find it? I wanna show it to a kids working class. On wwgoa .com, and I'll, when I'm done I'll see if I can find what you're talking about. And if I can, I'll link it in the reply. But, when you go to the menus across the top there's one that specifically says woodworking safety, and if it's still on the site it would have to be, we very, very specifically, one, anything safety-related is always free. It's not behind the paid wall. Two, we categorize, we group them all into that safety area, specifically, to make them easy to find. So if for some reason it's not there, I don't remember ever taking a video like that down for some reason. But it's conceivable that it's no longer up, but looking at safety menu and I'll spend a little time looking too to see if I can find it. Use a Japanese pull saw to cut plugs? If so, what should I look for in a quality saw that won't damage the surface? Yes I do. And it is, and I don't, let me do this. I'm still not quite used to my new work bench, so I don't know where it is. So this is, Japanese pull saw, I would use for cutting plugs. It's very flexible. So it allows me to, if I need to, I can get the handle up off the work while I'm cutting over here. Very, very fine tooth, probably gonna get inside the focal length of the camera here. Okay. Very, very fine tooth. I don't know how many teeth per inch, a lot. I don't know what brand it is. I'm not a huge hand tool guy. I've had this for a really, really long time. I don't know what brand it is. I do know it works effectively for me. I know it's fine tooth. I know it's flexible to not hit the material adjacent what I usually do is I take a business card or a playing card and I lay this on top of the card and then I'm cutting. And that gets me like five thousandth of an inch above the work surface so that the set of the teeth aren't rubbing on the surrounding area. And then I sand that lasts a little bit. flush. So this gets me really close, two thousandths, and then I finish it off with a sander. Marvin says, it's drum sander night. Is a drum sander a good alternative to a planer for highly figured woods subject to tear out the surface. Yeah. And this is, we were earlier talking about figured woods, Birdseye maple, quilted maple. Quilted, maple isn't too bad. But yeah, it's a sander cannot tear in only abrasive planes. So it's a great way to, it's a great way to handle highly figured wood Ken says, key features to look for in buying a bandsaw. I would say capacity. and that's going to be based on what you want to do. My Laguna saw, that I most recently got, has a 13 inch capacity, cause I wanna be able to cut big bowl blanks on it. This is my first saw with a brake, a foot brake. Now that I have it, I will probably never buy a saw again that doesn't have a foot brake. I've really fallen in love with it. Dust collection? Some saws I've see still have small ports on them, like a two inch port, I really like a four inch port on a bandsaw. You really need to move a lot of air to capture that fine dust. Budget, would be good. Quick release, I'm looking at my band saw here. Quick release on blade tension is very handy. Ian says, any suggestion for steam bending a short compound curve? Yeah, I'm not a, I'm not a steam bend kind of guy. I've done about this much of it. Just enough to be dangerous. But I am not a good resource for that. I just don't know enough about it. I have an old Craftsman table saw it has the original metal fence about one and a quarter inches thick very hard to keep perpendicular to the saw. Would you recommend a wooden homemade fence or something else? Well, there are companies that sell aftermarket fences, like Delta owns Biesemeyer. It used to be, and I think it's still the case. You could get a Biesemeyer fence and put it on almost any saw. A wooden homemade fence? I just don't know making a table saw fence out of wood, having a nice and straight and true and stable and have the ability to adjust left and right, track parallel to the blade, all this stuff we need in a table saw fence. Homemade, that seems like a tough nut to crack. So I would Google after market tables saw fences. And I don't know a boatload about 'em but they're out there. And I would look on the world wide inter web for aftermarket table saw fences and see what that marketplace looks like. And if that's worth investing in for your saw. Eddie, I live in Louisiana where it's hot and humid. I'm considering making a tool cabinet that would be kept in my carport. What material? So a tool cabinet, plywood. I recently worked, in fact this stuff right here, this is three quarter inch exterior plywood. The exterior nature of it is, it's a exterior glue, the wood is fur. So if this is going to live outside, which it can, it can be outside in the pouring rain, however, it does need to be sealed, treated like a deck. It needs to be stained or painted or something like you would a deck, just to help seal it up. But I think, and it's it here, it runs about 50 bucks, a three-quarter four by eight sheet. So yeah I would say a good, drop test. I would say a good quarter, a good quality exterior plywood would be a good choice for your project. Doug says, what would you recommend or suggest to somebody like me? Oh, I think we did that one already. Carlos, do you prefer alternate bevel blades or straight? And why? So if we're in the world of table saw blades, alternate top bevel, and it's not, the alternative isn't straight. So there's two really common grinds of table saw blades. Alternative top bevel is when, hang on, just hold please. Alternate top bevel. If we can get this on camera, Jenny, this will be cool. And then we're almost, we've got just a couple minutes left. So this is an alternate top bevel. I'm going to stand still. You tell me what you need. Am I too close? Yeah. Why won't that grab focus? Let me back up then. Let me back up, and now you zoom. There we go. It's daring. An alternate top bevel. Oh we lost it. You know, I think it's when I turn it straight on which is the shot we need, but-- I hope nobody's motion sick. All right, I'm gonna just stand still. This is an alternate top bevel. One tooth points to the left. One to the right. One to the left. One to the right. Stand up, sit down, fight, fight, fight. So alternative top bevel, like I have in my hollowed hands, provides the best edge quality. The downside to it is the teeth come to a very distinct point, which means if we use this on a lot of abrasive materials, plexiglass, MDF, particleboard, we can dull this blade fairly quickly. Alternative, Triple chip grind. This is the blade, that you, if you were watching you saw me cutting aluminum with, a quarter inch thick aluminum plate, not too long ago. So there's on a triple chip grind, the tooth, there's a tooth here that looks kind of like a tombstone. It's flat with the corners taken off. The triple chip grind is better, it's more tolerant of, sorry, of abrasive type materials, but it doesn't quite, it doesn't provide quite as good of edge quality as the alternate top bevel. So to answer, Carlos' question, it's not really which one I prefer, it's matching the blade to the job. So probably, 60% of the time I'm running a alternate top bevel, 40 tooth blade on my saw. But, if I'm going to cut plexiglass, or plastic laminate, or particle board, or aluminum, then I'm gonna go to that triple chip grind. All right, I think we can do one more. Robert says, resawing logs on a shop bandsaw. How can I keep initial cuts square to the core line? Well, I'll tell you what I do. I think this is what you mean, but I'm not sure. When I'm gonna cut a log into lumber, let me grab a thing. We should, we'll have to do a logs the lumber demo sometime because it's really cool. So this is my, this is my logs to lumber jig. Very simple. 90 degrees. Right angled gussets keep this at 90 degrees. Holes, that allow me to lag screw this to the log. You have to have this. You can't cut ground stock on a bandsaw without something like this to stabilize it. So I screw my log to this or this to my log, then I use a chalk line, a snap line, and I snap a line the length of the log. And then on the band saw, I just freehand follow that line. That gives me my first cut. Once I have one flat face, which comes from that first cut then I use a resaw fence on the bandsaw and I start sawing it into planks. So, the first cut comes from snapping the line. When I snapped the line, I make sure I'm snapping it parallel to the pith of the log. Otherwise you're going to have cross grain lumber, which will have no strength. So when you snap that first line make sure you're snapping it in the right spot. Then free hand follow that. Get it as straight as you can, and then put that face against the fence. And then you're ready to go. All right, so a couple of things, thanks to Titebond, as always, for bringing us to you free. Also, remember that that sweepstakes banner is right below where you're looking right now, and we're giving away a table saw, a router table, and a surface sander from Grizzly, Laguna and Woodpeckers. Like not in that order, Woodpeckers router table, Laguna's sander. That contest ends at midnight tonight. The drawing will be tomorrow. At some point tomorrow, I'm gonna get on Facebook live and I'll announce the winners. That'll be later tomorrow afternoon. So be sure you click on the sweepstakes there and enter. Other than that, Jenny parting wisdom. No. You know what? I have something for you. Is it a joke. What makes you think it's a joke? Is it my tone of voice. A little bit. What do you call a slab of wood that has nothing to do? I don't know. Board. Oh my god. All right. Sam's running the boards, you know board. Thanks Sam. See you the rest of you, in about a month. ¡Hasta luego!