WWGOA LIVE! February 2019

Hey folks, how you doing? Happy Thursday night and happy Valentine's day. Hey, let me show you the little thing I made. This was a, I do a Facebook live about every two weeks typically Thursday mornings at 11 o'clock. What, what, wait, wait, wait, mute. There we go. So on the last Facebook live I made one of these little box pivots, simple, stupid simple to do padauk lid, heart shaped box took the center out with just a forster bit, really easy little project. So anyway, happy Valentine's day. Did you bring your date? You know, it's that kind of an evening . Tonight we're going to see if we can answer some woodworking questions. There are some already queued up and I'm going to do a preemptive apology. Jenny, my camera lady, she's in college. She's going to graduate this spring and she had kind of a college this, this evening. So she had a run and take care of that may or may not be here in time to help us wrap up. But if we do a camera move it's going to be me moving the camera and getting where we're going but you're a very patient group. So I'm sure you'll help me figure that out. First off, thanks Tite to our sponsor who brings us to you for free by having this event. Here we go. Enough of that, huh. First question, being too lazy. There's a nice admission being too lazy to switch tables sub blades. I often use a 60 tooth cross-cut blade for both cross cuts and rip cuts. Rip cuts are presumably less efficient and may heat the blade up a bit more but wouldn't just slowing the rip slightly resolve that same question for 52 with combination blade. So it's a great question. And it's actually one that comes up pretty often the whole blade selection thing because blades are expensive. So if you don't have to buy a boatload of them why buy a boatload of them? So here's what we got. Here's a 60 tooth blade that I would use for cross cut and sheet goods. And the problem with using a blade like this a 60 tooth on rip cuts. It isn't slow and the feed rate down isn't going to do it. What happens if I had a piece of wood. Here's a lovely piece of Hickory, I'm going to bring to you. So here's the dynamic kind of the physics of this. When you cut in the same direction as the grain my pocket knife is acting like a rip blade. When you cut in the same direction as the grain you tend to get large savings because you're cutting in the same direction as the grain. When you cut cross grain or you cut sheet goods then if I can hold this, we don't get those big shavings. We get little shavings. So the dynamic of that, as it affects blades is that on rip blades, we need a large gullet. That's this, gullet is the valley between the teeth. That's gotta be big so it can carry those shavings away. So simply slowing down your feet rate doesn't help you because you're still making big shavings where the heat comes from the inability of a blade like this to be able to carry the shavings out of the cut. And that's why you start to get heat. So, no, it's not a good idea. It's in fact, it's a bad idea to rip with a 60 tooth blade. So then the follow up there too was what about a 50 tooth blade? When I was really kind of getting started in woodworking as it was 50 tooth blade was the combination blade. So marginally good at ripping marginally good at cross cutting. So you can rip with a 50 tooth. That's going to be okay if you really want to rip aggressively. This one that I was holding, this is a 24 tooth. The benefit to this over a 40 or 50 tooth blade is it's going to let you cut faster. So this is the blade I use. If I'm cutting miles and miles of stock for a face frame or for face frames on cabinets anytime I'm doing lots and lots of ripping the 24 tooth goes in because it lets me push the material through the saw way faster. That being said, let me grab the blade I was going to show you is actually on the saw. This one is similar. This is a 42 alternate top bevel blade. If you're looking for a good general purpose blade to just leave on the soft for most of your cuts, this 40 tooth alternate top bevel pretty good at ripping. Pretty good at cross cutting, but do not. It's a bad idea to rip with a 60 tooth blade. Next question. Have you built any jigs or do you have any hints for using a festival diamino , I've got the DF 500, find it heavy and hard to keep flushed to the woods. So it's, you know, the domino comes up in questions often and then I feel badly because we don't always pull it out. So let's do a little, let's do a little domino effect. If you're, if you're not familiar with it this is a festival domino and the technology behind it is crazy cool. I'm going to cop the fence off when this runs the bit spins and it isolates back and forth. This is not an inexpensive tool, got to get that got to air that out right away. Part of the cost is it, you know, think of the, think of the engineering that's involved in maintaining accuracy. When this thing is spinning at a high RPM and it's oscillating back and forth, which allows it to make a slot into which we put dominoes. So this is a loose tenon tool. It's a wonderful tool. It's a, it works amazingly well much, much, much stronger than a biscuit joiner much, much, much stronger than pocket holes. The way it works is very much like a biscuit joiner which is we're gonna I'll show you. We can make cuts this, that we then put the loose tenon into. So let me grab some material. Let's say we want to put these two boards there like this, create this L so first thing I'm going to do is grab my pencil And I'm gonna hold them where I want them to go make a couple of pencil lines. Now, the way the diamino would get used, like I said it's very much like a biscuit joiner. The fence flips down and I can control the height of the fence, which controls the distance from the edge to the face of your material, to the cutter. It's in a good position now for what I'm about to do then the other thing it's got is a depth stop. And we need to use that in order to brawl how deep we're going into each of our parts, then we need electricity. Now, to answer the question about tips for using it. What I usually do is, and really it's was a biscuit joiner. Left-hand on the fence and then let this just rock down with its own weight. So right there, the domino is now flat on my stock. Find my pencil line, let it rock down and go flat. Behind the pencil line, lock down and go flat. And the other board asked to go on a vice. Now this might be where things get where you have trouble because this is such a thin edge. As I rock the same approach how do I keep it from racking down too far? One way to get away from that would be clamping other board behind this one. So that this edge, instead of being three quarters of an inch is thicker and gives you more of a bearing surface. That gives us our slots into that. We put a domino that is going to then also go into this slot. Boom, and that's what's going to create - That's what's going to add strength to our joint because we've got the loose tenon binding these bridging these two pieces together. So back to the question jigs to use with it. Nope. That's not something I've ever seen not something I've ever built. Let me go back and just peek at the question again. Have you built any jigs or any hands? So yeah, we walked through some use stuff, no jigs and it's it's not something I've never seen. About to install chair, rail molding and dining and living rooms how high should it be, you know, say, I don't know, it's a boy. It's a long time as a finished carpenter. So I have no guess. How do you handle the ends that hang, if you're talking hang out in space would be bad. It needs to be attached to a wall. But if you're talking about a chair rail and that doesn't go a corner or another piece of chair rail, what you want to look up on the world of inter web are videos on cutting returns on molding. I've got to kick the camera up a little bit. Brrup. And when you do a return correctly, boy does that look great on molding, but it's not. I don't have any moldings here. We're more woodworking than a home improvement but that's before is how to cut returns on molding. That'll take care of it. Any new tools you recommend looking into, let's see I'm throwing my - I'll tell you what the new pocket hole jig from armor, it's cool. Excuse me. Good price point. I think it's around 150 bucks. It's got a lot of amazing features. I don't have one yet but I want to get one in the worst way. Armor is an interesting company. I've got these clamps from them, man. Do I use these things all the time? These are self-adjusting. So whether my bench right here is two inches thick whether I'm squeezing those on that two inch surface or doing, I don't know, three inch or four inch piece. There's there's no knob on here. You just squeeze. Now, if you want to add a little tension or decrease the tension a little bit there is a thumbscrew right there, but they've got a lot of stuff like this and that new pocket hole jig. So throwing my brain back to when I was in Atlanta last summer for the big woodworking show that really caught my attention. Axiom is a company that makes CNCS but they've also got a really cool air filtration. It looks like a tube sits on the floor and you can bring it to where you're working. And it's an air filter. Those are two that really jump out into my brain, jumped out of my brain from Atlanta last year. Got a fake screw I'm having trouble having trouble Having finding specs. Trk is hard to find. No, I don't have a favorite. My number one screw in this place is a number eight inch and five eighths. Wood screw you can buy those on Amazon. What you can, if, if you're looking for a specific screw, let me look at the name company. Yeah, quick screws. So I've got these handy packs of screws good quality screws. And so the company has quick screws and obviously that's all they do and huge variety of stuff. So if there's something you're having a hard time finding I would guess there's a good chance that they would have it when cutting edge green logs. So that's not the color of course that means it's wet when cutting a green log into planks. Is there an optimal thickness to cut it at to be clear, would it be better to cut it thicker. Say eight quarter or more than resort to size three or four quarter after it's dried or just cut it to size to start with so a great question. So log to lumber. This is a thing I teach all the time. So if you want to end up with three quarter inch steps then it's fine to cut four quarter or five quarter. I wouldn't go as far as order the thicker you cut it the longer it's going to take to dry. So if what you don't want to do is take wet wood and try to cut it into veneer right away. That's not going to work but what was take, like I said, four quarter stock and then after it's dry playing it to three quarter. Now you might want to go slightly over inch inch and an eighth or so. Cause it is going to shrink as it dries. So you might want to over cut the thickness a little but I wouldn't over cut. I wouldn't go eight quarter. If what you're shooting for to use is three quarter. That's too much . Best glue for acidic wood, acidic wood. I don't know. I would call the folks that titebond I was gonna I was gonna go in the oily direction but that's not it's the direction my brain went but that's not what the question was. I can't think of any words that are acidic. So I don't think I've run into this. Yeah. I don't know if I have used acidic woods. I've never had a gluing problem. So I don't know. Hello from Tayras I had to replace my lower band saw tire on a nine inch bands saw. The blade came off when the old tire broke but my blade did not show any kinks or bends as a result. However, now I get an when cutting any type of wood almost smells like wood-burning but I do not see any signs of that on the wood I am cutting. Any ideas on the cause of the odor . Boy that's weird. Smells like burning wood, but no burdens on the cut. What about, what about sawdust buildup someplace in the saw? And I'm not sure how this would tie into the band side tire breaking, but I feel like you got a rubbing thing going on someplace. I would definitely unplug the saw. They opened the housing, spin everything by hand and look for places that if you're, if you're not getting heat in the cut that's causing burning and smell you're getting it someplace on the saw. So I would spin everything by hand and look for that rubbed point. Something changed from the old tire to the tire and you're getting friction. So yeah, I don't, I can't put my finger to anything specifically, but diagnostically unplug it spin it by if you can find that friction point. So a follow up question on the planks, Greenwood. I guess what I was wondering is do thicker planks crack and split more or less than thinner planks. If you're careful drying them. I mean, Matt Cremona, we were live with him a couple of months ago. He routinely dried air dry slabs that are three inches. So it's fine to do it. It just, it just takes a lot longer. I'm going to toggle over to YouTube quick. What tape would you recommend in sir metric? I work at inch all the time. I used metric when I lived in Africa and it was great but people here don't use metric. So I like it, but I just stick with inch. Is a track saw better than a table saw for 45 degree angles, long 45 degree angles. Maybe there are lots of occasions where taking the tool to the work is easier than taking the work to the tool. I think the longest I made columns for then a quarter saw, white Oak columns. I think they were six feet long. And I did that rip on the table saw to make the four sides of the column. And I remember it, it was a little hard it was a little bit of a struggle to handle it. So yeah, it might be, it might be a track saw might be an easier way to go with it. Doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo doo. Do you sharpen your own router bits or send them out. I send them out. It's a company down in Southern Wisconsin. Milton, Wisconsin, I think is where it is now. I'm having a brain bubble and can't quite remember I ship them down there and I within less than a week, they ship them back. Why is it recommended to resell wood when it's wet? It doesn't make sense to me. I have some fresh tree branches. I'd like to a half inch and three quarter inch boards but somehow I want to wait until the wood dries out. Great question. So here's the deal. Well, I can, I'll show you something. If we can see it from this angle. So look at my throwing target, give you a little zoom, zoom, zoom, zoom, see the split. And where are we? There's my ugly finger right in that upper quadrant. When logs are in log form, as opposed to in plank form they're very, very prone to cracking wood logs would in the form of logs, not dry well in log form. It dries way better as planks that the stress of drying between the heart, the difference between the Heartwood and the sapwood is significant. That's part of what causes those chucks and cracks. So the reason that you want to cut it, you want to cut the log up green is because you're preventing splitting. Now when you say, okay, nevermind, re-saw wood when its wet. Yeah. So you want it. You want to cut the log up as soon as possible. You want to handle it as soon as possible. I've told this story, I think before there's a place, Oh I don't know, three hours Northeast of here that makes plywood out of hardwood logs. And in the summertime, when you drive by there they are running sprinklers on those logs all the time in an effort to keep them as damp as possible until they get to them. We got a hello from Kentucky and Port Angeles, Washington. Yeah. You guys got some snow out there, huh? Which is unusual for you. Right? I have a small project. I'd like to stain prior to glue up. Do I need to mask the areas the glue will contact or where the glue work through the stain? Yeah, I always, so my friend Paul he also writes for Goa and does a lot of videos. He's okay with staining, letting the stain dry and then gluing, not top coating, but staining. My feeling is I don't want any finish even staying in an area, that's going to get glue. So if it were Paul, he would stain everything go ahead and glue it and be confident that's going to be fine. If it were me, I would mask off any areas. I went raw wood, any place glue is going to go. So it's a conservative approach but it's the way I would definitely go. I'd like to build a stool with a dished seat. What technique would you use? What technique would you use to carve the seat by hand, router, table side, jig. How can you ensure the dish will fit your tush? Well, I can't ensure it's going to fit your but. But if you look on, if you look on www.com and in the upper right-hand corner there's a search window and type into that search window. I think if you just do dishing a seat you're going to get there. And I did a technique using a handheld router to do that on a stool seats. And I think, I think a router is the way to go. I think that's the easiest way to go. You can, friends of mine have done stool seats with the Arbor tech products which are power carvers that go in an angle grinder and you can do it that way as well. You're basically just hogging that dish out, you know getting it to fit your but that I don't know what to do about that. Dude. Try the best shot and see how it goes. Do I know the good source for reclaimed wood specifically two inch barn board for a tabletop. I don't know about two inch barn board but there's a place I don't know where you are William oh I don't know but a lot of no 45 minutes North of me, traditional woodworks, Somerset, Wisconsin, . Man they had beautiful stuff. They are in the business of reclaimed wood. That's all they do. So if Somerset, Wisconsin is not in your wheelhouse as far as buying lumber from them then I would Google reclaim lumber. But yeah, it's a, I've done a lot of business with Russ is the guy there. I've done a lot of business with traditional woodworks and their, their materials are amazing. Really cool stuff. Could you briefly summarize your process for keeping wood movement to a minimum from the point of your purchase, your completion of furniture products? Well, yeah, so I don't, here's what I do. I ordered my lumber surface two sides and straight line one edge. So primarily I I'm after three quarter inch stock. So I'm buying four quarter lumber. I get it surface to 13 sixteens at the hardwood supplier before I get it, it comes here as a general rule. I'm ordering in quantities, such that I'm consuming it at a pretty fast rate. So in other words, I recently built the cherry dresser. I ordered enough cherry to build the well I was like three dressers cause there was a video project. So there's a hero that I finished and then the ones that are in process that, but anyway I ordered just enough hardwood to do those projects. So I'm not warehousing hundreds of board, feet of wood. So for me, it's pretty easy peasy. I've got an unheated space which I'm pointing to basically a two car garage. If I have a bulk of lumber, it lives in there when I'm getting ready to use it, I've got lumber storage racks, I've got the Triton storage racks and a little store room right off my shop. That's a climate controlled space. That's heated. So whatever I'm going to use any time of year, summer winter, fall spring, it comes from the UN heated area that the none conditioned space to those lumber racks it lives there for at least a week before I'm going to use it. And then I bring it into the shop and use it. So pretty low tech stuff. I think the big part of that is just getting it in here in the shop plenty of time before you're going to use it. So it has the opportunity to acclimate to this environment before you're going to cut. Would a trim router be acceptable for your first router especially if you need something to round edges. Sure. Just depends on what you want to do. So a trim router is- where are you? My trim router is currently in a plunge base. This is the Bosch Colt. So the good news with trim routers is they're really easy to handle one handed. The potential bad news is I've never seen a trim router with quarter and half inch college. They traditionally come with quarter inch college. So anytime you can use a half inch shank router bit you should. So that's one of the limits with trim routers is they're they're only going to handle quarter in shank bits. If you're getting into bigger cuts, like something like a larger role and OJI, even a larger round over these are in the world of horsepower or amperage the smallest router you can buy. Now that being said, quarter inch round over five 30 seconds, Roman O G it's rabbiting bit. It's going to drive those cutters just fine. So sure, it's not, it's not a bad router or not a bad category of router to start with best value band for re-sawing lumber. I don't know. I own a Laguna 14 BX. I love it, but I haven't evaluated the marketplace. There's no way I could give a subjective. I am a statistic of one. I love my Laguna saw. That's all I know. I haven't been out there doing like any kind of head to heads, a great way to look at that wood magazine does lots and lots of tool testing. And I kind of feel like they did bandsaws recently but I would look at the Rs for wood magazine and see if they have got a a head-to-head tool test on bandsaws that fits your price point. And what you're looking for. On a scale of one to 10 how hard is it to learn how to program a CNC router? Depends. So learning anything I guess is like learning anything. So I taught myself to play acoustic guitar. I know people have tried who have tried to do the same and gave it up because they weren't enjoying it and really struggled with it. And I'm not saying I'm bigger, faster, better stronger at guitar than they are, but I just really, really really wanted to learn to play guitar. When I first got a CNC or I first kind of knew about CNCS I wasn't that sold on the idea. Then I got one and I was became more and more intrigued by their capabilities. So I was really motivated to learn it. But I would say I'm a good poster child for CNC education because I was, I got to think I was probably 54 when I got my first CNC in here. I had never, ever, ever designed or drawn on a computer. I didn't learn SketchUp until maybe a year ago. So I had zero experience with laying out and designing in software. I needed to learn that in order to use the CNC. So within V-card that's the software most CNCS use. I looked at videos, I learned it. And now four years later, I feel like I'm pretty well versed in running a CNC. It's very interesting. You know, I I'm catching I'm keying in on learn to program a CNC router. You don't program the router. You don't write code most of the bench top machines and even a bunch of the larger ones use V carve as the software that does Duchess designing does the designing and you create the toolpath. So there are all sorts of tutorials out there you can use. I wrote a book on it. That book is available on goa.com. Lots of information out there that can help you with that. So I, in my experience, it honestly, wasn't bad to get on top of a beginner, woodworker, plainer or jointer, which should I buy first? Yeah, you can joint on a router table. You can't join the big stuff, but you can joint three quarter inch boards, four feet long on a router table. So you could, in that regard, if you own a router table you could get away without a jointer for awhile. It's hard to find another way to do what a plainer does. It's a little easier to find another way to do what a jointer does. Now talking about edges. When it comes to face jointing, then you have the same problem you have trying to duplicate what a plainer does. So think about cleaning up edges. Generally what I tell people is a good router table will go a really long way toward acting as a jointer and doing all sorts of other stuff. But it's hard to replicate what a plainer does. So take, take all of that. I, I'm not going to pick one for you, but that's the kind of the highs and lows of it. Am I going to be at the Columbus woodworking show in March? Nope. I'm going to be in March at- Central Indiana woodworking club. I'm teaching there for, I think four days. Do you prefer for to build a jig for 22 and a half degree miters on flag cases or use a Delta tenanting jig. Yeah, I've got, I use the, I've got the power MADEC tenanting jig, and that's what I use for mine. Gonna jump over to YouTube for a second. See, what's cooking over there. Question about moisture meters. I have one and brother has one but we get different readings. Do they need to be calibrated? They don't. I've never seen one that needs to be calibrated but it's really, really, really, really important. Typically there's a wood specie chart that comes with the meter and then the meter will have print settings. So when you're reading I don't know what Apple it's on setting two. When you're reading Oak it's on setting three. So you really want to you got to make sure you're on the right setting for the material that you are working with, a meter you trying to read. How close tolerance of square is good enough ? Square is square. It's either square or it's not. So it's gotta be square. Thoughts on preventing rust on a CNC located in a non climate controlled space. I'm looking at my CNC machines. There's so much aluminum they wouldn't rust. I don't think there's any steel in them. But my, my standard coding product for woodworking tools is Bostic glide coat available on Amazon. And that goes on my all my cast iron stuff. Features as a hand tool work bench need. I do not know cause I am not a hand tool guy. You need to, I mean, Spagnolo Lewisburg would know that he uses hand tools way more than me mad Cremona, J Bates. Lot of people out there that use hand tools way more than I do. Where'd you get the clamp that fits in the dogs? Yeah, this is amazing. It's a Bessie product. I can probably give you the number. It's a Bessie TW 16, 2010 two k. So this is a three-quarter inch pin. I have three quarter inch dog holes in my bench because I knew I was going to use this that goes in there. That locks it in place down pressure. The other one I have that I like a lot saying same company. That was also a Bessie product but then this is a gear clamp. When I do this, it's pushing this down to put pressure on. I use these things all the time, great grip. What is the best way to take, play out of my contract or table saw. I don't know what you mean by play. So if you're still on, tell me where you're finding play and I'll see if I can give you an answer. We're about halfway through. So I want to take one of my mento and thank Titebond again for sponsoring us and underwriting this so that we can provide this for you folks at home. Oh, contractor table saw up I got to come back up better to cut from the right or left of the blade on a table saw. It depends. There's no one good answer for that because it's going to depend on what you're cutting and the it primarily is going to lean on the size of what you're cutting in broad brush strokes. I would say when I'm cutting really big panels I am to the right of the saw blade. And when I'm cutting small stuff and using a push stick I'm to the left of the blade but there's a lot of squishing around there. Contractor table saw miter gauge is I guess where the play is. So you can do a couple of things. Let me, let me get a couple things. So my first, my first statement is going to be if you're using the miter gauge on your table saw a lot. So when I first opened my shot in 1998 I did not own a miter saw. I did all my cross-cutting cutting thing I did is get a really, really good aftermarket miter gauge because I knew I was going to rely on this for highly accurate cuts for all my work on after market miter, gauges. They always have a thing that allows you to take up the difference, the difference between the size of the bar and the size of the slot. So in this case, it's kind of a nylon or or high molecular weight, plastic washer. Then when you tighten the screw from above it expands it to take the play out of this that's an anchor product, what I've seen but I haven't never, ever tried this, is people taking their standard miter gauge and then put this on a hard surface like an anvil would be perfect or a metal vice and then use a center punch and very close to the edge of the miter gauge punch it. And you have to do that in a couple spots, not just one. So what you're trying to do is imagine if the center punch point is really close to the edge and I hit it hard, I'm going to deformed the metal a little bit in that direction. So you want to do that in a few spots so that you don't have just a pivot point then take that back and try it. If you punched it too hard and went too far. Now you gotta use a file to bring them down and get them the right size. So like I said, I've I read about this as an approach. I've never seen it done. I've never tried it. So no guarantees for me on its efficacy on of whether efficacy. How do you say that word? No guarantees for me, if it's going to work or not but if you're doing lots and lots of cross-cutting on the table saw I'd get a good aftermarket miter gauge. And Jay says, thanks for the knowledge. Well, thank you. Thanks for saying that. I really appreciate it. And thanks for watching. Oh, microphone keeps dropping. All right, I'm going to get rid of it then this this is a new thing. This mic tonight. Give me one second. I wish somebody would've said earlier, hang on. I probably making your ears crazy doing this. Let me make sure How's that we've done this show numerous times without the so I'm sorry about that. I wish somebody had pointed that out that would have gotten rid of it a long time ago. More accurate to cross on a table saw or miter saw. Have you have a good if you've got a good miter gauge on your table, sound like we were just talking about you can easily get really good accurate cross cuts on a wider side. There's AJ saying hello from Massachusetts How are you AJ, How's Gracie doing and Ann and May. How should I finish a solid Walnut bed? Where there's an open-ended question. Also I'm planning on using recess, bedrail, fasteners. Do you think that is strong enough for a twin bed? Nashville loves the show. Glad you loved the show. Finish your walnut bed. I don't know. It depends. There's so many things here. So depends on your environment. You can finish in. Do you own a sprayer? Do you have to put it on by hand? Do you have an environment where you can handle lacquer? I am a huge user of water based lacquer. I spray it with an HVLP sprayer. Water-based slacker and Slack are my two main finishes. All of which go through my HVLP. So it's just, it's different person by person. There's no good answer for that . Recess bed, rail fasteners. I, I used the ones rocker cells and had good luck with them. So I don't know why they wouldn't work on a twin bed . Piece of Walnut about 18 inches, like cut off a log. and let it sit for a couple of weeks till I got it to make. I'm gonna try again. I am a piece of Walnut about 18 inches. I cut off a log and let it sit for a couple of weeks till I got to it to make a cutting board. There we go. Now it is starting to crack. If I make my cutting board and palliate will it start cracking. No it's so the problem is it's just not stable It wasn't stable yet. It takes, it takes lumber about a year per inch of thickness to dry. And if it wasn't completely dry and completely stable which it wasn't, that's what caused it to crack. Then sealing it up, that isn't going to gain anything. Cause it's still gonna dry. Even with finish on it, it's still going to dry. So you've got to take that lumber, set it aside until the moisture content is completely stabilized and the best way to know that is with a moisture reader. And then once it's completely stable and it's done losing moisture then you can do whatever you want. Hello, Allie was that your question before on the CNC? Keep it from rusting, but you got so where on your Axiom is there stuff that's gonna rust? I'm looking at my Axiom. It's like, there's so much aluminum on it. I guess maybe the guide screws but I think they're chromed aren't they? But anyway, that Bostik Bostik glide. Coat is what I use in here and all my cast iron from an ambient humidity perspective this time of year it's not an issue. My hands are so dry right now. It's disgusting. There's not enough gold bond in the world to keep my hands moisturized this time of year In the summer the humidity gets pretty high. And then I'm very religious about putting Boston glide coat on all my cast iron stuff. And a cutting board that will be used for food, pros and cons between the long grain or end grain. Does one old bacteria more? Yeah, I don't really know. I mean, my gut would tell me an enduring cutting board is going to hold more schmutz, bad stuff. But I, Sam andr cutting boards to 220, I seal the heck out of them with morel oil. I think that as long as they stay sealed I think you're going to be okay. But you know, I feel like this is probably something Google would be able to tie somebody out there somewhere has studied this and made a report. Having trouble finding a wood filler for holes caps that center that really does absorb stain and provide uniforms, stain color. I'm going to run and get the one that I like and I'll show it to you coming right back. So this stuff, this isn't about absorbing stain this particular product timber mate. And there's a similar product in the marketplace. You should know about called Good Filla, G O O D F I L L A. I just don't have any in my shop right now. So it's available in a variety of different colors. It's water-based I like that. So if it gets dry like this is pretty dry in there right now. I can just add a little water to it and reconstitute it. It can also be used as a grain filler. So you're not trying to get this to take stain. You're matching this to the color of your work. They also make it in a neutral base. And then you could use anilin dye or whatever you want to custom stain that to match your stuff. So timber mate and Good Filla are my two choices. Bob says when using a CNC, how you adjust the feed rate, does Mikar Pro do that for you? Maybe it depends on your machine. On the machines I have here. You adjust the feed rate on the machine. You got to look at your owner's manual on some larger CNCS within the software. When you tell it, you want it to run it 50 inches a minute or 150 inches a minute, it will see that in the software and pick it up with the machine. It'll do that for you. What do you think about mahogany furniture? I like working with mahogany. It's I don't really know what you mean. Like mahogany is a great wood. It's pretty easy to work with. Aja says it's more better. Mic was nice, but occasional static. Sound was better with mic on. Please go back to the clip on like, wow. Okay. How much time do we have left? 10 minutes. All right. I'm going to listen to the audience and throw the mic back on. This'll be the you guys tell me in the last 10 minutes which way we want to do this. Let's see. Everything is still on. I'm looking at myself in the monitor to see. I mean, it might not be static. It might be rubbing against my Africa chain or my neck. And then this guy. This is on. Gonna lose this. All right. I know it's echoy without this but this is not working. Let me get in here . Now I feel badly, like maybe couldn't hear a bunch of the last answers and again, where did we cut out, man? All right. I'm reading questions. Okay. I'm caught up on YouTube. Sam. I'm going to give this a couple of extra minutes cause I didn't know what happened with the audio there but we really cut out. I'm scrolling. Okay. All right. Now everybody's telling me there's no sound, no sound. So there's like just 8 million comments when there was no sound. Okay. So I'm going to, I'm going to do this one again. The question was about keeping the bark on a live edge bowl. And most of my live edge stuff like this one doesn't have bark on it cause it fell off and that doesn't bother me. But if you want to stabilize a wooden bowl to where hopefully that's not going to happen. There's a product in the marketplace called Penta Cryl. P E N T a C R Y L. And what you do is you saturate the blank in it and you don't start turning the ball. So when this is still in bold blank form you saturate the blank and then there's a prescribed schedule of how long the bowl needs to sit in Penta Cyrl depending on what species it is and how big it is. Once it's fully absorbed, that'll stabilize the wood and help prevent the bark from coming off. However, I think there are a lot of variables to. I believe that when trees are cut in the spring when the SAP is flowing, the park is more prone to falling off than it is when they're cut in the winter. So there's a lot of stuff going on there but it's not something that I worry about too much because like I said, for me, I don't I don't try to keep the bark on. Where do you get your ear protection? These are wonderful things. This is ISO tunes pro, there's a couple of these available ice tunes extra is another form of it. They're available on Amazon. So they're hearing protection and they connect to my phone. So generally when I'm working in the shop and running tools I've got these on and I'm listening to imagine dragons or congos or Johnny Cash or Chris Stapleton or some form of music. If my phone rings, I can hear it and I can answer my phone and the music stops. And then the other thing that's really neat about them is they've got a noise canceling feature. So if I'm running something like a shop vacuum the person I'm talking to on the phone can hear me talk but this is cutting out the vacuum from the background. So when I'm on an hour long conference calls don't tell anybody this sneaky thing, but when I'm at an hour long conference call, I'm probably cleaning my shop while I'm on the conference call because I have a hard time sitting still. And so anyway, all around great product, the ISO tunes pro. I think I'm not going to quote a price because I'm not sure. All right. I believe we are caught up. I'm just scrolling up to see if there are any questions there. Yeah. I'm sorry. I don't know what happened with the microphone, technology . All right. Well folks, it is eight bells. We've there's no more questions on here. Ima look at it one more time. Cause I feel bad that the audio was being funky. All right. So thanks so much for watching again, happy Valentine's day. Thanks for taking the time out of a date night. If it's a date night for you and spending it with me here in my shop, what a wonderful Valentine's day. And I will see you. I gotta think a second, second Thursday in March. Yeah, I'll be here. It's a little bit later in March. I go do that teaching gig in Indiana. If you're in the twin cities area this Saturday which is February 16th I'm going to be at the Minnetonka store . Mina Tonka Tonka Tonka starting at 10 o'clock. I believe. So I've got two demos going, two demos on teaching at the rocker stores this weekend. So the first one is spline jig, a spline jig on the router table pointing to my router table. That's from 10 to 11 and then 12H30 to 1H30, tips on using the dovetail jigs. And then I'm at the Maple wood store on Sunday, same setup but it's an hour later. I'm 11, o'clock 11 to 12 on the spline jig but then still 12H30 to 1H30 on the dovetail gym. So if you're in the area, if you're in the twin cities area stop in at one of those two stores or both I'll get both stop in and see me. And I'm trying to think I don't think I have any other teaching gigs coming up that I can point you toward a weekend with wood is sold out. That's very cool. All right, I'm going to sign up. Thanks to Sam who's behind the scenes, running the board and does such an amazing job of keeping this truck moving and thanks to you folks for watching Sam shut her down. We're all done for the night and see if folks see you next month.