WWGOA LIVE! June 2018

Hey, folks. We are transitioning from our normal live, which would be on YouTube and on WWGOA.com, and doing it on Facebook tonight, because the technology is not working to let us do this the way we normally do. So this is gonna be a little bit different. Instead of the normal camera and shotgun mic and everything else that we normally use that Jenny controls, we're on an iPad. So we gotta cut Jenny some slack here. Normally, it's the iPad that I look at questions on, and the iPad is being used to shoot, and my laptop is at my house, so give me a second. I gotta get to WWGOA.com here. And that's a fly zapper. We'll get that shut off here. So I'm going to GOA so I can see your questions. Sam is also feverishly working the board, trying to see what we can figure out here, if there are any solutions for this tonight. But I think what we'll do is we're just gonna end up sticking with, we'll end up just sticking with Facebook for the next hour, and go from there. So let me retrieve questions. Sorry about the kerflooey-ness here. As they say, it's always a great battle plan until the first shot is fired. While I'm looking, let's thank Titebond for sponsoring and bringing this stuff to you guys for free. Hang on, I'm almost there. You know, if this was easy, I guess everybody would be doing it, huh? Scrolling, scrolling. Do you want my computer? I brought it. Does it have enough battery to go an hour, or? I don't know why I'm having such a hard time finding- What is some exterior glue that is going to last? Oh, they're showing up on there? All right, give me a sec. I know I can make this happen. I got it. I got it figured out. Almost figured out. We're getting there. Okay. Live June 2018, that's now. All right, let me get to your questions. Yay. So we gotta go extra time, Jenny, 'cause it took me like 10 minutes just to get to this first stinking question here. I have kitchen chairs with splayed legs. The problem is the legs are not flat on the floor. How can I trim the bottom of the legs to get them flat and even with each other? Great question. And as it turns out I've got a chair. So I don't know, Jenny, I can't see what you see, so I'm gonna trust you implicitly. And I'm gonna be on the bench, so yeah, I'll take that. Cool with a K. Hi AJ. All right, here's what you need to do to make, to get the wobble out of chair legs. First thing is we need a level reference surface. So if you're gonna do this on your workbench, put a level on here, and if you have to put wedges or shims under the legs, you gotta get this table level this way and this way. Then the chair goes on here, and you're gonna put the level on the chair, and we gotta get the chair level. Now, what will happen is that if the chair is rocking, all right, this one's got a little bit of a wobble in it. So I'm gonna use wedges and I'm gonna get the wedge under the legs such that the chair is level and the wobble stops. When the chair is level, that'll show you how much I have to take off two of the legs. So for instance, on this one, there's about an eighth-inch probably of wobble in it. So once I got it to that eighth inch, what I would do is then take a 16th off of the opposing legs, off of this one and off of this one. That should sit it flat so that the wobble comes out. The reason you're using the level is that tells you, do I take the entire eighth off of one leg, and that's gonna have this corner go down, or the entire eighth off of this leg, that corner is gonna go down, or do I take a little bit off of both legs so both corners go straight down? So that's why step one is using the level and getting the chair level, and that'll tell you how to deal with the opposite corner legs. Okay. A Macintosh, how do you use these things? This is so weird. It's not a touchscreen. "Basic description of the difference between a router and a shaper," John says. Yeah, great question, and one that I get fairly frequently. So in broad brush terms, you can say a router is a high RPM, low torque motor, compared to a shaper, which is a high torque, low RPM motor. So to give you a perspective, routers generally spin at about 12,000 to 24,000 RPM with a universal motor. Shapers generally spin at about 9,000 and 10,000, they're usually two speeds, nine and 10 or nine and 12 or somewhere around there, but their top speed is typically a lower RPM. So one of the things you gotta think about when you're cutting wood is not just RPM, but how many cuts per minute is the tool providing? So a two flute cutter in a router at 24,000 RPM is 48,000 cuts per minute, and provides great surface finish, right, great cut quality. So you might say, how is a shaper gonna give me good cut quality? And the answer is that shaper cutters are typically three wing or four wing. So when you take 12,000 RPM times four wings, you still get 48,000 cuts per minute, which compares favorably to what you get from a two flute router bit at 24,000 RPM. So induction motors is what table saws, big planers, big jointers, shapers have, and if you're gonna run something eight, 10, 12 hours a day, five days a week, six days a week, a shaper is gonna probably a better choice for you. From a versatility perspective, a router's a better choice. It's nearly impossible to take a motor out of a shaper and use it handheld. But of course I can take a router out of a router table and use it handheld, so it gives you more versatility. If suddenly on Sunday you realize you need a router bit, you can probably go to Home Depot and buy it. If suddenly on Sunday you realize you need a shaper cutter, you're probably gonna be out of luck. Some shapers come with router collars, and they'll accept half-inch and quarter-inch shank bits, which seems like a great idea until you think about running a half-inch dovetail bit at 12,000 RPM max. It's just gonna perform really, really poorly because of that low RPM. A router is a better tool for that. So there's a lot of benefits on both sides of the coin, but in general terms of universality, ease of getting cutters, versatility, a router table is typically a better choice. Johnny says, "You mentioned during the easy cast epoxy video that the two-part mixture was different and the brass powder was heavy. Does it settle to the bottom of the epoxy during the curing process? Thank you." All right, Johnny, here's the deal. So this is a newer video. I think it posted to WW, oh, you wanna play catch? Jenny's standing there with her hands out. It posted on GOA.com I think just within the last week or so. And what it's about is what I called liquid inlay, I cut letters, I CNC cut letters into a board. It's heavy and sharp. And then I filled them with epoxy, and you can tint the epoxy, or what Jenny was just showing you., this is clear epoxy mixed with brass powder. And I think coloring is really cool, filling it with brass powder is really cool. So part of Johnny's question was, I think, about the epoxy. Casting resin, which is what this is, is way more liquidy, way more viscous than the two-part epoxy you're gonna buy off the shelf at a home center and squeeze out of a syringe. It's way runnier. So when you pour it into the letters, it's gonna flow out a lot better. And then his other question was does the brass powder settle out? Well, this is a great example. This block is about two by two by two. I cast that in a silicon mold, they sell it on Amazon, and you can see that the color is continuous, the color is throughout, so it didn't settle out at all. This bag of brass powder is crazy heavy. This is really neat stuff, really, really neat to mix with the epoxy. Daniel says, "Could you give me your lathe chisel brand recommendation? My 25th wedding anniversary is manana, and my wife asked for a lathe to turn bends and bolts." Wow, nice. "I need to get her a good first set of chisels. Watching from Kentucky." So there's a couple of ways you can do this. The carbide chisels, like the Easy Wood tool or carbide tipped chisels, they cost more than high-speed steel chisels, but their carbide tip, you never sharpen 'em. So the way it works is, I was just thinking a second where a chisel is, if it's readily accessible, but they're kind of buried. The way it works is that it's got a wooden handle, a metal rod, a support, and on the end of that, there's a piece of carbide. And when the very tip of the carbide gets dulled, you can loosen a bolt, turn the carbide, go to a fresh spot, and you can do that over and over and over again, and when it's completely dull, you take it off, and then you put on new one, a new carbide insert. So more upfront costs, but you or your wife don't have to learn how to sharpen, which is a benefit. Alternatively, what I would do... I gotta think a second. Tool steel chisels are sharper, or I mean sorry, are less expensive than high-speed steel chisels, but they don't hold an edge as well. If you really think turning is gonna stick, I would go with either high-speed steel chisels or carbide. More initial upfront costs, but they're gonna serve you better over the life of your turning. All right, I gotta do a refresh here so I can get more questions from you. And Sam did a great job of getting, I'm on Facebook Live, but Sam actually got onto the host page on WWGOA. Great job, Sam. Robert asks "why use a jointer on face boards and not just plane them." So why do we face joint? I'm looking for a board. So... Got two for the price of one. So when we send boards through a planer that are, and the boards are irregular, they're cupped or they're curved, or they're bowed, or all of the above. What can happen, remember that the way a planar works is that there's an in-feed roller that's gonna grab your material, propel it, then there's an outfeed roller that's gonna grab it and pull it the rest of the way through. Those rollers, in order for them to work have to put down pressure on your material. That's what's gonna help them be capable of feeding. So when they put down pressure on, if the board is cupped or bowed it's possible that they push the cup out. So as they're under the rollers there's pressure that pushes the cup out. The planer head hits it And then when it comes out from under the outfeed roller it just springs back up to that irregular shape. It's unlikely that when you take two push pads on a jointer and you face joint that you can push down hard enough to take the cup out of a board. So the reason that the preferred method is the face joint, one face, is that you're gonna get a more regular, a flatter reference face to start with than you would if you went to the plane. Now, that being said, my planer's a benchtop DeWalt planer and realistically what I find is that if I do have a board that's got a cup in it, especially if it's a softwood like pine, if it's got a cup in it, if I use very light pressure from the rollers, I can probably take that cup out without flattening the board as it goes onto the rollers. A bigger planer finessing it like that, you know, an induction motor planer, a three horse planer with big steel rollers, I think you're gonna have a harder time finessing it. But with a benchtop planer with rubber rollers I've gotten away with it a bunch a times. But the 100% right way the flatten a face is to face join it. I'm gonna go to my phone, Jenny 'cause it seems like there aren't a lot of questions showing up there. Here I'll hand you this. Maybe just, maybe I missed the refresh or something, but. Did you see-- 'Cause I have more questions here. Did you scroll? Yeah, oh are they showing up there now? Okay, it's a Macintosh and I'm a PC guy, so. Just use two fingers to scroll. Okay. Did you already see these? You might have. Oh, this is weird. Is it, Mike asks, "is there an all around glue?" Sort of, it depends. I mean, if everything that you're gluing is gonna live inside, it's furniture and cabinets, you could use just regular yellow glue. If the stuff you're making is gonna live outside then you need a water resistant or waterproof. So all around, you couldn't go wrong by using something like Titebond III is waterproof. If you use that for all your projects, outdoor and in you're gonna be covered. If you use just regular yellow glue and it ends up in an outdoor project, then it's gonna fall apart 'cause the glue can't be outside. So I guess if you wanna just have a, if you wanna be a one glue shop, you could buy a weatherproof glue like Titebond III and you'd be okay. "What planes would use a bevel up versus bevel down blade?" I think... I think some low angle planes. I am such not a hand tool guy. I'm looking for my low angle block plane. Yeah, I'm not, I'm not rapidly finding it. But people are welcome to correct me on this, I did, I taught hand tool joinery when I was with Peace Corps in Africa, like 25 years ago, but I'm not a huge hand tool guy now. So, but I think some, I think on some low angle planes the bevel is up instead of down, but don't hold me to that. Thomas says, "I'm looking for a great circ saw blade for breaking down plywood. Also would a shell scoring cut work the same as on a miter saw, blade rotation being the same." So I use a Freud Diablo in my circ saw when I'm working on plywood. It's a 40 tooth, I think it's got 40 teeth on it, 7 1/4 inch blade, so pretty fine tooth. I believe it's alternate top bevel. And it's just an off the shelf Home Depot item. It's not exotic. That being said for me, I'm typically cutting stuff down, I'm cutting plywood down, but then I'm taking it to the table side of finish it. So I'm a little concerned about cut quality but not uber concerned. If you're uber concerned, I would look at investing in a track saw someday. But I've had good luck with the Craig track and a DeWalt circ saw with the Freud Diablo circ saw blade in it and got pretty good results even in oak veneered plywood. "Would a shell scoring cut work the same?" Yeah, it should. I mean, if you score the surface first, barely penetrate it, just to get through the veneer and then finish your cut, that should help you. Oh, also Butch, I know the email sent you to YouTube but it was due to technical issues and we had to do Facebook. Yeah we're, if you started at YouTube and bounced around and stuff, we had, the gear just was not working tonight. So instead of being on our conventional camera, shotgun mic, the whole nice setup, we're on an iPad, we're Facebook live which is streaming through goa.com. So sorry about the technical issues but the good news is here we are. "Can you use a plunge router to cut dovetails on a jig?" You could. Many people find it easier to finesse depth of cut of a router bit on a fixed based router than on a plunge router but it depends on the plunge router and how it's set up. When you do half blind dovetails, the difference between a great fit and a lousy fit is pretty small parts of an inch of adjustment on the dovetail bit. So if you can finesse, if you can dial your plunged based router in finitely, then sure, it'd be okay. John says, "I've been turning pens and I've only needed a mandrel so far. What should I get to start doing other things?" Well like more mandrels or mandrels Barbara. Get it? Jenny doesn't. Do you know who Barbara Mandrell is? Yeah, okay, she's rolling her eyes anyway. So I have done a lot of pens. This piece of brass is probably gonna be a wine bottle handle, wine bottle stopper handle. That's a different type of mounting system. I've turned handles for razors, different kind of mounting system. So what you really need to do is look at, in the category of turning pens and stuff, look at what it is you wanna make, and then generally they'll say this calls for, this requires something. And then it'll be a different style mandrel or a different kind of a mount or something. John wants to know if you have any future projects lined up demonstrating the use of a shaper. So John is asking about shaper. I don't own a shaper, so no, it's not, it is not in my current wheelhouse to have one. How are you getting questions that I'm not seeing? I just see a few on the Face, like Facebook. Not on the-- Oh go it, okay. Stan from Vermont. Stone-cold countertop. I'll have to look at it later, there's a link here. Lawrence says "Any cure for off cut hoarding mania?" He says, "seriously, I can't bring myself to toss all those perfectly beautiful little pieces of wood. I find myself making silly faces from triangles, abstract wall art, bubinga grain is fascinating, weird paperweights, or expensive loose scrapers. How does one cure this malady?" I'll tell you how I cured the malady. When I moved from my old shop to this shop I loaded a truck and a trailer with stuff that I didn't wanna bring here and it was, it was pieces of scrap wood I had saved, pieces of scratch sheet stock I had saved, projects that were kinda done but not really done that someday I was gonna finish. 3000 pounds of stuff went to the dump. When I got here, I started telling myself, I says I am never doing that again. I am never letting the stuff pile up like that. So I, when people are here for classes or just in my shop in general, they give me a little bit of a hard time over that 'cause I have a very liberal attitude about throwing stuff away. I've got a two yard dumpster right outside the door and I have no qualms about putting scrap in there. 'Cause I just can't, I just can't sit out. What sheen do you sprayed kitchen cabinets? What sheen do I spray kitchen cabinets? Either Martin Sheen or Charlie Sheen, are my two favorites. I generally do, and not just cabinets, pretty much everything I do, I do a semi-gloss. I'm not a huge fan of real high gloss on wood. I think it gives a kind of a plasticky look. So instead I stick with, I generally stick with semi-gloss. And Kevin wants to know, what's the best way to do a breadboard and on a tabletop. Well, you gotta let it float Kevin. And we've got, if you go to www.goa.com, there's quite a bit of information on there about breadboard. And so I'm glad you're asking, 'cause this is a pretty commonly misunderstood thing. Let me get some stuff. Stay where you are Jenny. There she is, there's Jenny. All right, look at the brand new paper I got this week just for them. Draw Vida. Draw Vida, yeah, that's funny. That would be you that can draw. So a breadboard end, what we're talking about is a board, grain going this way. Probably has a tongue on it. And then we're gonna put an end on it that has grain going this way. So the concern is this has to expand and contract independently of this. So generally what I do, is I put a tongue on this, a groove on this and then I glue it, but I only glue the very center. Now, if the whole breadboard edge is 16, 18 inches wide that'll work to glue the middle and let the outsides float. Another thing you can do if you wanna , if it's wider, glue the center and then let me do a little more drawing here. Gotta think a second. All right. This is the tongue that's cut into that breadboard end. So the other thing you can do is you can drive pins that come up through the bottom of the breadboard end and then they engage in the tongue, but the key is, the holes in the tongue have to be elongated. So that this piece, remember the grain is goin' this way, so that this piece can expand and contract independently of this piece. So if you're doing a wider piece, a longer breadboard end, like I said, you can pin it like that but the pins have to be allowed to float in the tongue. Chad asks, "what's a good product to use to clean a table saw?" Good product for cleaning a table saw. So how bad is it Chad? Like my roof leaked like a year ago. I was on a trip and I, teaching on the road and I came back and offloaded my tools on a Sunday and like cried 'cause there's a rust stain on my table saw that was about that big from the roof dripping on it. And it was stupid. I couldn't, I couldn't go home until I got the rust off it. I just, it was killing me. So WD-40, sprayed on liberally and then a very, very fine Scotch-Brite pad. It's tempting to run a power sander like a random orbit sander. I wouldn't do it. I always sand by hand and I'll wrap sandpaper... So as opposed to a Scotch-Brite, fine sandpaper will work fine as well. But I'll wrap it around a board so that it's staying nice and flat. 'Cause on a table saw we've got a dead flat cast iron surface. What you don't want is to be creating some kind of low spots by only using hand pressure. So Scotch-Brite or sand paper, wrap it around a good piece of hardwood so that you can, you know that you're staying flat as you sand. Grit to start with, you know, again depending on how bad it is, but once you've got the WD-40 on there, you could probably start with a 320 or so, sand the rust off, wipe everything down with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, something to get all the schmutz off and then you're ready to seal it up from there. Got something Jenny? Somebody just asked about an exterior glue that would last really long. Ex, well exterior glue that would last long, I mean two-part epoxy, is weatherproof and acts like... Two-part epoxy, resorcinol, those are the types of glues that are commonly used in like boat construction. Depends on the project and what you're looking for. Stuff like Titebond III, I'm pointing 'cause it's on the shelf over there. Stuff like Titebond III is weatherproof and can be outside for a really long time. So I guess it depends on the project. But outside of common glues, like Titebond III, two-party epoxy and resorcinol, are will work. And Tom asks about a good circular saw blade for chip free plywood. Oh we did that one. Oh, Tom he already answered it. 'Cause that was on, yeah, we answered that about 10 minutes ago. That was also on this page. Okay. And I think, so Sam, am I, are we not getting questions? 'Cause I'm stalling out on questions on the computer. I'm on the, I'm on the landing page for the live on goa.com. I'm gonna look again here now that Jenny taught me how to scroll. Guys want to see my dog? Come here Vida. Come here Vida. Go Vida Go. Come on Vida. Come. She's so old. Don't hurry, don't hurry. And tell me again, Vida is a Chow or something. Newfie we think. Chow-Newfie mix. Very nice temperament. Wearing her cool new harness. She likes bugs. Jenny's dog. Hi Vida. All right, do we have Facebook questions that-- Sam said she will start copying questions. And she says the first one is, how does torque effect cutline on a circular saw? It's really hard for me to see all questions 'cause of the thing. Let me, I'll jump on Facebook here. Is that what you're like reading? I'm just, yeah I'm reading 'em. I'll just jump on Facebook here. How does torque? Or I could open it on my phone and I can just ask you then. I got it, or okay. I can do it. I'm gonna grab a Gatorade while Jenny is loading questions 'cause I can tell him to run out of voice. So first one is that one I just said. Read it again though. I don't get it. Yeah. How does torque effect cutline on a circular saw? I'm sorry, but I don't understand the question. Okay, this person says do you prefer Festool Domino or biscuit jointer? Domino. And I'll-- Please expand. I'll show you why. I am... So here are the biscuits. And then let me, I'm gonna be gone for just a second 'cause I'm gonna get a domino. Coming right back. Entertain 'em Jenny. I don't have any jokes. I'm not very funny. 'Cause I-- All right, here we go. So pretty common question, domino versus biscuit. And what the big line in the sand for me is on a domino, now this is a small one, this is a number 10. Number 20 is slightly bigger but still the amount of penetration that we get from the center of the domino into this mating piece, I'm sorry, center of the biscuit into the mating piece is really tiny compared to the amount of penetration that we get from a domino. So in my brain, the domino's much more readily simulate the type of joinery we get from mortise and tenon. So it's not that dominoes are bad, they've they've got their place. However, if I'm building, certainly something like a chair and there's a lot of rackin' and frackin' that goes on on a chair when people sit on it, I want a domino in there, not a biscuit, because we have so much, again, so much more penetration into each of the two mating pieces. So in functionality of using the two machines, if you've used a biscuit joiner, you can use a domino. They're, in functionality, they're nearly identical. However, the loose tenon that you're putting in so much more strength from a domino than from a biscuit. This question is, I wanna build a wood mallet and would like to know how to make the wedges to lock the head to the handle. I plan on using Walnut. Would you agree this is a good choice or recommend another wood? Thank you. Walnut, walnut is a great wedge. We could, if you can roll a little bit Jenny, we could go to the band saw and we could cut a wedgie. I don't have Walnut, but I have a handy little piece of oak. So yeah, let's spin around. Sorry it's bumpy Bumpy and wiry. And I think these lights are not working. Thanks James. Yeah, my dog's pretty cute. All right. Are you here? I'm, I'm there. There's-- Yeah, I would, to cut wedges, I would do it on a bandsaw. And I'm generally, kind of part of the key to this is when you're driving it into the end of the handle to freeze up the head, you want there to be a pretty shallow angle on there and that's part of what makes a bandsaw good. This happens to have on it a half inch four tooth, four tooth per inch blade, which is a great choice for what we're doing here 'cause it's basically a ripping type operation. We wanna cut a taper relatively straight. So I'm gonna start on this end at the, what will be the point of the wedge. And there's one. Started at the point of cut. Now, if I start here and cut, I can get a second wedge. Aren't brakes on bandsaws amazing? So obviously I just freehanded both of those cuts. If you wanna buy some insurance and draw 'em out with a pencil ahead of time, go ahead and do that. But the deal with the long taper is that if this is real shallow, it's gonna be more prone to working its way out. When you have a long skinny angle on the taper it's gonna get a better bite into the handle and be way less likely to come out of there. Can you recommend a good already built workbench? About six to seven foot is all I can fit. Also, could you recommend a good tabletop drill, press and bandsaw? I've been working on transforming my garage for some time but now it's the buying tools phase. Well that's, the buying tool phase is the fun phase. Unfortunately, small workbench. Yeah, I just don't know, 'cause I built every workbench in my shop. Now one of the things you could consider, a way that I built one of my workbenches was I bought a maple slab from, I think I got it from Woodcraft Supply. But Grizzlies sells slabs. Just Google maple slab top. And it was, I dunno two inches thick and 36 inches wide, six or eight feet long. And so on one of the benches I built, like I said I didn't wanna make the slab, so I started by buying that. But just a recommendation for a bench, I'm sorry, I just don't have enough familiarity in the area. Bench-top drill press, I haven't looked at a bunch of 'em. I had a Shop Fox bench-top drill press for quite a while that served me well. So there's a statistic of one, you know, it drilled holes and it did what I asked it to do, so that was fine. Bench top bandsaw, it's another category I haven't looked at for a long time 'cause I've got a floor model band saw. So that one I'm gonna leave alone, 'cause I just would be throwing darts at the wall. I haven't used a bench top bandsaw a bunch a years and it just, I don't have great advice on that. Before we jump on, I'm gonna say again, thanks to Titebond, our sponsor, for bringing the lives to you. And thanks to Sam behind the scenes for, despite our technical difficulties, Jenny's getting us a sponsor bottle. Thanks to Titebond, for sponsoring the lives. Thanks Jenny. And thanks to Sam for, despite our technical issues, keeping everything chug, chug, chuggin' along here and same with Jenny for running, not the camera, but the iPad tonight. All right, fire. Another question. How do you sharpen a point on a marking gauge? Sharpen a point on a, so a marking gauge or a marking knife? Marking gauge. So I would, let's go this way, and we'll see if we can do a little of this. I'm sorry if you're nauseous . Marking gauge. What do you do first is you find your marking gauge. There it is. And then you grab a file. And this is where we will suffer a little bit here because it's hard, way harder to get detail with the iPad than it is with a camera camera. But marking gauge, there's the spur, and I would simply file it. I'm gonna move the head out of the way. File that until you have a sharp point on it again. But don't try to, don't try to remove the spur. Just leave it in place. And it doesn't, it won't take many strokes from a good fine file to bring that back to life. All right Jenny, hit me. What size HVLP needle tip to use for latex paint? Three. I spray latex with a 1.3 and I thin the paint about 10% with water and then I also add Floetrol to the pain. And Floetrol's not a thinning agent. It retards the drying time just a little bit. So the paint has the opportunity to level out better. But in my HVLP 1.3, 10% dilution, Floetrol according to the directions on the Floetrol bottle. Do you have any advice for applying unbacked laminated wood to plywood or particle board? Unbacked laminated wood. I don't know what that is. Unbacked laminated wood to particleboard. I, yeah, I don't know, 'cause I don't... Unbacked, is there an expansion and contraction issue there? I don't know. I need to know what laminated wood is. I don't know what that product is. When finishing bare pine bi-fold doors, is there any need to apply a stain free conditioner, basically a thin version of the stain with no pigment on top of a shellacked first coat before staining? Experimentation is always good on scrap to make sure you're getting the result you want. But in my experience, however, you should try this in your shop on a piece of scrap, in my experience if you use dewaxed shellac, that'll take the place of the conditioner. 'Cause basically you've sealed the wood. So dewaxed shellac, very light scuff with very fine paper, stain over the top of that, top coat over the top of that and you should be done at that point and not have to go to, not have to go back to conditioner. But try it on a piece of scrap to make sure you're gettin' the look that you want. What are the best bench grinding wheels and grid size for lave turning tools. Thanks from North Carolina. On my, I have a low speed grinder and it is, I'm having a little brain . Let me look here. Yeah, I run 60 and 120, 60 grit is if I'm shaping a chisel, you know if I'm doing a significant change on the tip. 120 grit if I'm just honing and that's most of the time, that's the wheel I use the most. All right, next question. I have some 120 plus year old barn boards, 15 inches wide, one inch thick. Cool, I'm coming to your shop. What is the best Titebond glue to fill cracks and stabilize the wood? Oh, I wouldn't. Yeah, I wouldn't fill with a Titebond glue. You know, there's so many people doing stuff with epoxy these days. If you poke around online you'll see all sorts of solutions for this. Let me grab this board. Oh, this is heavy. So this is Walnut and this part right here was, that's all bark right there. So it was a big bark inclusion. You can actually see all the way through. So this I filled with with casting resin, with two-part epoxy. And I think if you're looking to fill cracks especially if there are significant the two-part epoxy is a way better choice than any Titebond product that I can think of. Hi George, where's the best place to look for router templates. I'm trying to find a six inch round circle template. Already checked with Rockler. Oh, I already checked with Rockler. Yeah, I don't know. Cause I think either maybe instead of looking for a template what about getting a Trammel for your router? So that lets your router act like a compass. Then you could just cut a perfect six inch circle by pivoting the router. It's gotta be a plunge router. Other than that, I don't know. Maybe Google knows, but I don't, I don't know that I've ever seen anybody just selling circular templates in a variety of diameters where you would trace it with a router and cut a circle. 'Cause I think people are just prone to making it, making those kind of templates in their shop. So you could do that. If you can cut a six inch circle on a bandsaw or jigsaw and refine it, you know, sand it 'til it's the circle that you need and go from there. But I think I would entertain a Trammel point for your router if that would work for you. What is the best way to cut a cement board? Ask family handyman. Yeah, I don't know. Is there any gear for off cut coordinate, oh wait, we just read, you got that one. Can you use a plunge router to cut dovetails on a jig? We did that one. Okay. And best low to middle skill level jointer that's affordable. Yeah, it's another, you know my answer here is like it was with the benchtop bandsaw, I just haven't... But one affordable, everybody's got a different idea of what affordable is. Two, I haven't done a jointer tool test since, oh probably in 15 years or more. At one point I tested like 26 inch joiners for American Woodworker. That was so many years ago the results wouldn't be viable anymore 'cause the marketplace has changed so much. So yeah, I, like a good way, a good approach for that is to look a lot of the print publications like "Fine Woodworking", "Woodworkers Journal", "Popular Woodworking" they "Wood Magazine" does a lotta tool testing. Bob Hunter is the editor there that does 'em. Look at those magazines. See if they've got a jointer tool test that fits in the price point you're looking to spend and check that. Otherwise again, you know, with me, it's like a statistic of one and I have an eight inch floor mount jointer, which is probably not quite the model that you're looking for. Okay, next question is I want to make a cigar humidifier and veneer the outside. What can I do to the inside, since it will be cove cider. It might be Spanish. Spanish. Spanish cedar is usually the, is usually what humidors are made out of. What is it cove, is that what it says? It says cove cider. I'm guessing it could be a spelling error. Okay. I just figured I'd try to give you . Yeah. Yeah, well Spanish cedar is usually the lining for humidors. I don't know, what do you mean by what can I do to the inside? So if you build a box and then you, was it veneer on the outside, right Jen? Yeah. So if you veneer the outside and use Spanish Cedar to line the inside, I think you'd be okay. I don't know what the, I don't know what dilemma, I don't know what problem we're trying to overcome there. I think that approach would be fine. You talked about dominoes and biscuits, but you didn't mention where you would use dowels. And then he says I have a shop smith. Yeah, so dowels lean toward the domino side of stuff. And again, think about the amount of penetration we can get from a dowel into each of the two mating pieces, significantly more than a biscuit. So ease of use, domino, woo, you know, but it's an expensive tool. So from an ease of use perspective the domino is a great winner there. From a strength perspective, dominoes and dowels, I'm, intuitively I would say are right there with like a traditional mortise and tenon joint. And then a biscuit's gonna be down below that someplace, with screw pockets down below that someplace. Hi, I'm looking for pointers on how to lay out a log for cutting blinks for bold turning. All right. Okay. No I'm thinking, 'cause we have logs. You stay here. The digging just means the riff raff, that would be me, is coming in the door. So are you good with this? This I'm glad you asked, 'cause maybe this'll motivate me to cut this into a bowl length. This is a really cool piece on maple. This part right, is gonna be incredible. I think there's gonna be some beautiful grain inside there. So one thing when we're taking logs out of it, or bowl blanks out of logs, we want the bowl to come out this way. So... When we look at this, this is a piece of box alder that I turned. This ball is situated in the log like this and generally what I want is for this surface to remain intact. Let me get another one. So that when we're looking at the rim what you're seeing is the original edge of the log, natural edge bowl. And I think that's a really neat look. I think that's a really cool approach to bowl turning. So what I usually do is I start, I've got an electric chainsaw so I can use that in the shot. I start with that. And if this is 10 inches this way I cut it 10 inches this way 'cause I'm trying to get a cube out of this. Then flattened one face. Now you might be able to do that with your electric chainsaw or I got a jig I use on the bandsaw that I can bolt to one face, so then I can run it through the bandsaw to get a flat face on the other side. Once I have that flat face, then again at my bandsaw I can cut this into an approximate circle and then we're ready to turn it into a bowl. So it's, whatever that was, three or four steps. Cross cut so that you have a cube sort of. Then one flat face so it'll sit safely on a bandsaw table. Then bandsaw so you can cut it round and then you're ready to put it on the lathe. Logs and bandsaws, bandsaw's a great way to cut logs. Be certain, certain, certain that you're stabilizing the logs so that it can't roll while you're cutting it with a bandsaw. It's very dangerous if that rolls. I have a set of mediocre chisels that are about to need sharpening. My question is, should I learn to sharpen these medial chisel or should I go and buy a decent set and use those and in time learn to sharpen those. Lathe chisels, bench chisels? Well you own the chisels and it sounds like either way, you're looking sharpen, right? You're either gonna, the question is either learn to sharpen what you got or get new ones-- And sharpen-- And learn to sharpen on those. I mean you're, and I guess even then, it doesn't matter if it's bench or lathe, eventually you're gonna sharpen 'em. So if it were me, I would start with sharpening on the chisels that you own because they're mediocre, so if you mess 'em up, who cares? Get your sharpening skills down and then pony up and upgrade to the better set of chisels at which point your sharpening skills will be better and less likelihood of messing up your really good new chisels. What causes a six inch disc sander to act like it has a mind of its own. Most of the time it grabs and moves all over the place. I've tried different grids, less, more pressure. What am I doing wrong? Thanks. So on a disc sander like an angle grinder is not the same as where if we're talking about the same thing here, is not the same as like a random orbit sander. So on a random orbit sander we're spinning but we're also oscillating. On a disc sander, and I'm just looking to see if I had one on the board there. I don't. Part of the key with that is that you need, you can't make contact, you can't take an entire six inch disc sander and touch it down on a surface, 'cause then it's gonna walk all over the place. You probably can't get it, you don't have the, none of us, have the body mechanics to hold that disc perfectly parallel to the work surface, touch it down perfectly flat, and move it consistently, keeping it perfectly flat, and that's when it starts to do the jitterbug on it. So with a disc sander, they're really designed like you're only gonna use part of the disc at any given time. Random orbit sander, because they spin and oscillate, it takes that out of the equation and that's why we can touch those down flat on a work surface and get away with it and make that work. Okay. What are your recommendations when using lumber from big box stores for say face frames and jigs if you do not have ready access to a lumberyard? What do you look for other than the obvious, bows and cups? The big thing is, I think, like you're saying avoid the bows and cups, but also bring the material into your shop, and buy ahead so that that stuff can sit in your shop for a month before you're gonna use it. Because the thing if we're, and big box store lumber, especially if we're talking about construction grade lumber, construction grade lumber is not dried the same way that we dry furniture grade lumber. So it's typically got a higher final moisture content. I mean, we're looking to build a house out of it, right, not build a chair. So it's usually somewhere around 12 or 14%. Kiln dried furniture grade lumber is usually around six or 8%. So with that higher moisture content it's more prone to going kerflooey on you. So one thing that'll really help that is get it from the big box store, bring it into your shop, let it sit for a month so it can acclimate and leave it big. So if it's a two by four, but you're gonna need 1 1/2, leave it, I'm sorry, that is 1 1/2, but you're gonna need a full edge, leave it at an inch and a half until it does it's cupping, twisting and warping, then go back to your jointer and planar and table saw and straighten it out, after it's done it's voodoo. And that'll be the best approach. The biggest thing is, get it into your shop so it has a chance to get used to your environment before you start to work with it. What's a good top coat for dining room table top and how many coats do you recommend? Well, how many coats will depend on what you're putting on. A lotta woodworkers I know are using wipe on or brush on polyurethanes. And I think rather than me quote coats, read the can or ask the manufacturer because I, it's not a product I use. I spray a water-based lacquer. And it's an Aqua Coat product. And I do a base coat of shellac and then two coats of Aqua Coat water-based lacquer over the top of that. And I've got, I don't know, there's a ton of tables including my kitchen table that have that on there as a sealer. And I love the product. It's very durable. It's easy to apply. It works great. Okay, next question is, any thoughts on the SawStop tabletop versus other brands based on the safety features. Yeah, my table saw buying advice for people for the most part is save your pennies until you can buy a SawStop, because you can, because it's got that technology that can save your fingers. So with SawStop, what they have done is made a really good table saw that also has a break on it. So I don't, I've never seen with any of their products where, because they've got a brake, nany, nany, boo boo we're compromising the quality on the saw because we know you wanna buy this because it's got a brake. They make a great table saw and it's got the safety feature. So really you've got, you really got the best of both worlds covered. So... Okay. When making crown molding or cove molding what are the best degrees to cut the back so that they equal 90 degrees? Yeah, I don't know. I've never made a, I have not made moldings but I think if you look up on crown molding it's called the spring angle of the molding. And I think there are, I think that's pretty standardized. Like I think if you walk through a home center and you look, just look at the label on the bin and it'll say, it'll show you what, it'll say right on there what the angles are. Or, just buy a short piece of it and then measure those angles and duplicate that in your shop. But, yeah, off the top of my head I don't remember what the spring angle on most crown moldings or cove moldings is. Okay, this is the last question I see. From Dick, he says, "how long do you let wood sit in your shop before use, hardwoods rather than softwoods. Well it's so here, my wood primarily lives in an unheated two car garage, which is next to my building, attached to my building. In the winter time, when it's 20 below, I wanna bring material in here and I'm not joking, like it really does get 20 below, which means it's 20 below in that garage. So I want that stuff in here for a week before I'm gonna use it. This time a year, so right now the humidity isn't bad. It's the environment in here, my shop, is pretty much the same as it is in that garage. I'll bring it in and use it within an hour. You know that's, I'll just bring it in and use it, that's fine. So the starker the contrast between storage and where you're gonna work with it, the longer you have to let it sit. But I don't think I've ever let stuff, I don't think I've ever felt I need to leave stuff sit for more than a week. Winter time, I keep it about 60 degrees in my shop and I do humidify. 'Cause it's, this is a standalone building, so there's no shower or bathtub or anything like that, washing machine, that's adding any humidity air. So I do humidify the building in the winter, so it simulates the environment that you would have in a house where a piece of furniture is gonna end up. Okay. Are we wrapped? All right, we got it. Oh yeah, so we went past eight o'clock, so that's good, 'cause we started a little bit late. So again, I'm so sorry about our technical difficulties. All right, Jenny made artwork for us cause she was the artist in the family. I'm so sorry about our technical difficulties but kudos to Sam who helped pull this all together so we could do a live, even though it's a little bit kerflooey. Kudos to Jenny for running the iPad instead of the normal cool high-tech cameras she usually gets to run. And kudos to you for watching and sticking with us through thick and thin. Thanks to Titebond for sponsoring and thanks to Jenny or our closing artwork. Thanks for watching. See ya.