WWGOA LIVE! March 2015

Hey everybody. You're watching our first ever WWGOA live-streaming event. My name is Bailey I'm moderating tonight, we're here with George Vondriska, managing editor. Hey George. Hey, how are you doing? Good, how are you doing? Really good, I hope the questions are pouring in. Yes, they are. So all week we have been asking for your questions. We have a huge list of questions. We're gonna try to get to as many as we can tonight, George is gonna be answering your questions, but you know, we may not get to all of them. So check out the website. We're gonna be posting some answers there. Does that sound good, George? Yeah, I think that's the plan, cause we had, what Bailey, we had over a hundred questions came in ahead of time, right? So now we can't answer a hundred questions in an hour, so yeah, we're gonna do what we can. Yup, and just a reminder to everyone viewing in tonight, down below, you'll see a comment section, just like on YouTube. You can actually type in some questions there, too. We're gonna keep an eye on that and we'll be throwing some to George and hopefully he'll be able to answer some of those too. That sound good? Sound's great. Well, let's dive in here. George, I have a first question for you. This one is from one of our WWGOA members, named Daryl. He says George I'm planning on building a planer sled as seen on WWGOA. It uses a planer bit and a router that slides on two parallel two-by-six boards mounted on each side of the table that allows the router sleds to stay perfectly level to cut the high spots off from the twisted, cupped, or bowed pieces that need one level of flat surface, before when you get through a planer his question is, he's heard from various submitters that if you just run the border plank through a planer and turn it off after every pass through the planer, can you eventually get that flat surface, is that correct? Okay. So here's a couple of things. First, I do have to introduce Jenny, my daughter. She has been helping out here in the shop for a couple of months and she's gonna help us tonight and big picture here's what's going on. We took a bunch of these submitted questions and I prepped some stuff to make sure I'd be able to answer those questions on the fly. As you folks put questions into the comments, Jenny's gonna help pull stuff together and we're gonna answer those as much as we can. So the first thing Jenny, we got to go this way. Krista is on the other side of the camera and she's gonna do her best to keep up with where we're going here and show us what we need to see. So what we need to see now, Krista, is this sled, because this is what he's asking about. Are we there, Krista, you got it? Okay, so the deal with this sled is that- I wouldn't go down a hill with it. you wouldn't go down a hill with this, that's a great point. This is more for flattening wood than going downhill and if Jenny moves the router back and forth. You can see that it's a little bit, like it's a little bit like a cross between a radial arm saw and a plank. The idea with this is, right, if you hold that for a moment, I want to tip this up so everybody can see what's happening. Your material would go in here, this track goes on top. The router rides back and forth and then, pick up the router, Jenny, we're gonna show them a bit. There's a really large diameter cutter in there, so that's gonna allow you to flatten whatever has been confined in the base of this thing. I've used this to flatten big chunks of material that are too wide for my planer. I've used it to clean up end grain cutting boards. This is on one of our DVDs. So this will certainly get material flat, once it sits in here, might take some shims under it, in order to get it to stop rocking and rolling. That locks it in place. Router slides back and forth, Because as Jenny's moving it this way, she's also sliding this track down the jig and that's how the flattening happens. Now the planer question, if I understand this, right, the question is if I send stuff through the planer, make a cut, flip it, make a cut, flip it, will it eventually come out flat? Sorta, they'll subject to bends. So now we've got to go this way, Krista this is this kind of hard camera shot I'm gonna ask Krista to get it. We're gonna take advantage of the really shiny bed of the planer. So if you could point down this way Krista, and see if it'll reflect, Jenny, can you just raise the head of the planer, which is that way, oh, other way, sorry I misdirected you. All right, so the reason I want to do this is that if you can see in the reflection, how does that look for you Krista, all right. Yeah, good. There's rollers in the planer and of course it's unplugged so I can do this. So those rollers are what grab your material and feed it through in order for the, you can be done now, Jenny, it's a good workout though, in order for those to be able to feed your material they've got to have some down pressure. Now, realistically, if we put a board in there that's two inches thick and eight inches it's wide and it's got a cup in it, those rollers are probably not gonna put enough down pressure to try to flatten it, plane it and have it spring back up on the other side. I think you could go ahead and back out Krista, however if the board is thin, let's say it's three quarters of an inch or less depending too, on how much pressure you put on from the planer. It's possible that you got a cup, you start with a cup the rollers flatten it, make it smooth and then basically when a couple of out the backside you have a smooth cup, but you still have a cup. So my point is on a really thick board, I think planers can take out a cup. On a thin board, they're probably gonna push it flat and it's gonna spring up, a twist, like a big, long screw drive, is a whole different deal because it's really hard for the planer to flatten a twist out, so it's not gonna be a good solution for you. I hope, do you think I've answered the question? as far as you know, sounds good to Jenny. All right, Bailey, I think we're ready to move on to another one. That sounds good, thanks George. So just to kind of recap, if anyone's just tuned in with us, we are streaming live right now. We are with managing editor of WoodWorkers Guild of America, George Vondriska, and he is answering all of your woodworking questions tonight. So our next question is from Alvin. Alvin says, I plan on making a mobile two foot by six foot work bench and have read floor locks should be used to keep it immobile enough to work on. Do you agree? All right, good question. So my deal in my shop, everything has always been at a mobile base, this time, Krista, we're gonna challenge you by going down towards the floor. There was a roll there, Jenny on the bed. For me, it's very important that I have mobility. I guess I changed my mind a lot about where I want stuff to be a one man show. So when I need to move it, I want to be able to move it. So this is my main work bench, this is the one I use all the time. And to answer your question, yes, I have casters. They're locking casters. Now, if you look at these and is this where we are Krista. are we framed kind of on the roller there? Yeah, I can see it. Okay, these are not your everyday casters. What happens when I lock this, it locks the wheel which all casters are gonna do, but it also lacks the pivot mechanism. You probably won't find cashiers like this at a big box store, but you will find them at woodworking specialty stores. Excuse me, the benefit to that is that it really helps take the wiggle out of the bench when you need to lock it. Now, one step further. The reason that the bolt is in here is that if I really need to stabilize the workbench, like when one of the hand tool guys, which isn't me, but Seth Keller Damon Kendrick, Tom Casper or other editors are here doing video and they're doing hand tool work. We'd back off the bolt that allows the bench to go right down to the floor. Then it really locks it in solid. So , it'll be able to take the whole total weight of your bench, now remember, if your bench weighs 500 pounds, each caster only has to be able to take, how much? I'm bad at math, dad. A quarter of 500, which is 125 pounds So that would be a load rating for caster. All right, Bailey, what's next. Awesome, our next question is from Bruce. He says, what is the best way to avoid getting glue squeeze out into the pores of the wood and messing up the finish on a project? Okay, we're gonna do this one, We need the rosin paper, s-il vous plait. We're gonna set this one up and then we're gonna come back to it as time goes on, so we can spread that out. And if you flip it over and it curls the other way it'll stay, while we're done, all right, here's what we're gonna do. We're gonna glue some boards together, lumber. All right, my approach to squeeze out is to leave it alone. One thing I can tell you is that, that's pretty uncommon for me to go after squeeze out with a damp rag, my feeling is that that does a good job of further diluting the glue and pushing it into the pores. So what I'm gonna do is we're gonna get these boards set up to glue, watch the edge. We're gonna get a bead of glue that's gonna come out of there. And then I'll talk about where we're going with that. All right, Jenny, go ahead and close us up on that side. Like this? Yup, the other way. And you got to kind of, there now it'll go. All right, we have a beautiful glue bead on top of those boards, don't touch it. What we're gonna do is we're gonna come back to this in a little bit. I'm gonna check the clock, in 10 or 15 minutes that glue is gonna be just the right consistency. What I'm looking for is a point where the glue is kind of rubbery. And at that stage of the game, we'll be able to slice it off there with one of my glue chisels. We'll talk about that when we get to it. So don't let me forget, in about 10 or 15 minutes, we got to revisit this, I mean, in a little bit and that's the approach I use. Whether I'm gluing up jewelry boxes or legs and rails on tables, or anytime I have squeeze out this is probably gonna be what I do and we'll come back and look at that, the effect of that in just a little bit. All right, Bailey. That sounds good. Just to check in real quick, we are live, with WoodWorkers Guild of America managing editor, George Vondriska. He's answering all of your woodworking questions tonight. So if you have a question, just post it right down below in the comments and we'll try to get to it. Our next comment or question comes from John. He has a question about using the jointer, when running a board for the jointer and say you want to reduce the width by say one sixteenth of an inch. What does each pass take, or excuse me. Why does each pass take off more material on one end than the other? All right. We're gonna make a move here, for the jointer. So there's a of stuff going on here, so just stay back. This one, we don't need to be tight on. We need a big picture on this one. Do I unplug? Yeah, good question. What we're looking at here is set up on the machine. One thing you want to check is to make sure that the in-feed and the out-feed tables are level. Jenny, could you grab that four foot level that's hanging on the pegboard right there, way on the right side. So we'll have a look at checking those amounts for level, I'll show you how, so we're gonna take a straight edge, thank you. With the jointer unplugged, I'm gonna hold it tight onto the Opti-table. And then what we'd be looking at is the gap between the bottom of the level and the top of the table at both ends here. We want to make sure that that gap is the same. That would tell us that the beds are parallel to each other. What can happen is the way you can measure this is using you're gonna look that up in the manual and see what you need to do in order to fix that. The other thing I found from watching students in classes is that what can happen is just your hand pressure can have an effect on this. So as I'm feeding this board, if I have a lot of down pressure on my left hand and very little down pressure on my right hand what will happen is I will take more off the leading edge of the board, it seems weird. It seems like we should be able to just feed the board and that's gonna do the same thing throughout, but you do have to have uniform pressure between your hands front and back to make sure that you get a good pass. Now, while we're here at the jointer I'm gonna give you a freebie. And Krista, could you throw me that heavy pencil off of that work bench right there? Yep, thank you, yeah there, all right. There's another thing we should talk about here, at the jointer is feed direction, this is really important. A lot of materials, this is red oak. There's this heavy grain pattern, like this, and one of the things that grain pattern tells me is that the grain here, now you might wanna, or I can walk toward you that might be easier. Here at the edge of the board, how's that look, right here? Okay, the grain is prevailing down toward this edge, and what I always say is think of the grain like hairs on a cat. And if we look at it this way and these are hairs on a cat, Jenny, which way do cats like their hair brushed? Probably with the fur. With the fur, very good. So this board, this cat wants to get petted, pet, it wants to be petted in this direction, so that the grain, the cat hair is laid down, and not get lifted up. The way that affects us with the jointer then is that the jointer head is spinning like this. This would be the correct feed direction on the jointer, so the cat hair is laid down. If we go the wrong way and imagine this pencil is one of the cat hairs, it's gonna stand up on end. And the symptom of that is that we get little chips in the edge of the board. And this is a case where you don't want to let the chips fall where they may. So the really good news out of this whole thing is that typically if you have plain pattern like this, it points in the correct direction of feed. If you get an edge like this one up here, let me come in again, where it's really, really, really straight. That doesn't matter which way you feed. You can go either way when it's really straight like that. All right, Bailey hit me. Great, our next question is from David. He has a woodworking shop in his basement and he says, his biggest problem is noise. How can he dampen the noise from going up into the house? Well, I don't understand why the people upstairs, don't wanna hear the planer, the table saw and the router run, so maybe they need to move out. Maybe that's, okay, that's not a good answer. All right, here's the deal with sound insulation. This is gonna be a visual answer, Jenny, can you get the white board, please? For this, what we used to do when I was still in building construction and we were building, especially like commercial buildings, apartment buildings, and that kind of stuff. Part of the deal for sound insulation, is putting fiberglass insulation in stud pockets. So if you're in a basement, if you've got ceiling joists, and you want to set up the basement from the upstairs, put fiberglass insulation in there and that's gonna help a lot. But the other problem is, that if we take really dense material, drywall, We put it right on the bottom of the floor joists, on top of the floor joist, you've got subfloor and then a floor, and so we're transmitting the sound to drywall, joist, sub floor, upstairs, and everybody can hear it. So one thing we used to do was use a product called BuiltRight, or Celotex. It's a very dark fibrous material, and that would go on a ceiling or a wall first, then covered with drywall to half an inch thick, so you need to know you're gonna do it, when you put your fixtures in and that would then insulate or dampen the vibration, this going from the drywall to the joists up into the upstairs. That's one solution. Another way to do it is to just get the drywall to stand off. If you look on a worldwide inter-web for soundproofing track what you'll find is that if these are our floor joists, you can get tracks that'll then typically run the other way. And in profile, they might look something like that. This gets fastened here, the drywall then gets fastened into that. The concept is the same. We're taking that really, really, really dense drywall, and we're separating it from the ceiling joists, by having those tracks in there. So that it dampens the vibration. I think we need to give someone some art lessons. I know we should, we should have you do the drawing, while I do the talking, because you're way better at it. All right, Bailey. Pretty good art work there. George. Thank you, see Jenny? All right, our next question is from Tom. He says, I noticed in one of your videos that you use the Trend AIR/PRO, I am told that the battery when fully charged will run down by itself in a few days and possibly have an hour or so left, when you go to use it. This would not work well for me, because I only woodwork every few days. Do you find this to be true? All right, Jenny is getting the Trend AIR/PRO right behind the grinder in the plastic bag, because I forgot to bring that forward earlier. You could even put it on and show people. So the deal with this thing, it's pretty cool. It's got a face shield on it, so that, of course, if I'm turning or doing any work in the shop it's protecting me. And then there's also a battery-driven air system and filter. What that's doing right now is it's drawing air in through a filtration system, pushing it down over Jenny's face, really nice when I'm turning, I wear this all the time. So to answer your question, in my case, now for me, what usually happens is I charge this, We come into a video shoot or a mobile touring, and I would say I'm good for three or four hours of wearing this and having it run, then maybe while I'm having lunch, I'll plug it back in and get a charge back on it. Then I'm back to work in the afternoon. So in my case, I haven't experienced any kind of premature battery failure. What I would do is maybe contact Trend and say, what is the expected life? How long could I expect this thing to run? And there shouldn't be a lot of variable there, because it's a single speed unit it's either on or off. So I'm sure they have a run time, and then once you have a unit of your own, if it's not matching those expectations you can give them a call again and find out what the deal-i-o is with the battery. Thanks Jenny, all right, Bailey. All right, this next one is from Jim. He's just got a real quick question for you. He says, how can I cut a 19 inch circle to mount a round stained glass window? Okay, 19 inch circle for a round stain glass window. Let's come back, before we do that, let's come back to glue world, can you come in on this a little bit, Krista. So this is, and then down to the glue, Okay, this is close, now what I'm looking at is here in the center. It's turned a pretty dark yellow, but out here it's still a little bit too liquidy. See how yellowy this is? So in the middle, it's probably ready to do our cutoff but out here on the edges, I think if we do it right now it's gonna be, well, let's give it a try. Let's see if that cuts for me. Oh yeah, that's pretty good. And, see how that peels, and it doesn't leave any residue behind. Now, if it's too wet, the problem will be that when we hit that bubble, we're gonna burst it like a glue blister. And then we're gonna end up with glue all over the surface. That's gonna be a big mess. So we want, really want a bit of consistency where it cuts, but doesn't pop. Now, if you wait too long, it's gonna get too hard, you're not gonna be able to cut it loose. Let's talk about the chisel for a sec, are we there? Okay, so this is not one of my joinery chisels. This is a chisel I only use for glue and stuff like this. I sharpened it on a belt sander, not on a whet stone and that's all the edge we need on here, to slice that glue off. And like I said earlier, when it comes to removing glue inside corner on a jewelry box, inside corner between a furniture leg and a furniture rail, this is the same approach I'm gonna use to slice that glue off real carefully instead of wiping it. I find this works really, really, really well. George and that doesn't affect the finish at all? Well, so that's what we're after here, is we're trying to get this to where the glue, you can back out again. We want to get this to where we don't allow the glue the opportunity to get into the surface. So in this case where we're cutting it away, a little bit of sanding afterward and what ever tiny bit of glue residue is left is gonna be gone. And I find this to be a really good way to take care of the glue and surface problem. If we don't do this, if we're not careful, then we find out that we messed up with the glue. When we go up with finish on, stain, your top coats, won't stick where you have glue, because you basically pre-finished them already. So we've gotta be really careful about excess glue, or it getting all over the place on you. All right, 19 inch circle, so now we need that whole pile of stuff, I'll get this thing out of the way, this one, switch the router to plunge router. All right, so this question was about, cutting a 19 inch circle. I'm assuming we're making a frame cause there was mentioned there of a piece of stained glass. So here's how I would do this. We want the outside of the circle to be nice. We want the inside of the circle to be nice. And we want the stained glass to drop into a rib. In this case, I'm working with the sheet of plywood, partial sheet of plywood, but we could also do this by building a brick mold of solid wood to make up the frame. First thing we need to do is fasten our material down to a substrate. We're eventually gonna cut all the way through, and if we don't fasten this down it's gonna get away from us. So this part I'm gonna need help with Jenny, because I can never get this peel cover if you could be so kind as to peel that backer off the tape, once it gets started, it goes great. But getting that paper started is always a pain. This is double faced tape, it's not carpet tape. You can get this from woodworking stores, got to have it in the shop. Very, very useful, very versatile stuff. You're gonna use it a lot, once you have it. The board I've got up on the bench is a piece of melamine, and that's just waste wood. You're gonna see by our technique here, that eventually we're gonna cut into that, and that's just scrap that we would get rid of. Well, all right. the double faced tape in place, you can flip and position it. Now the key to this is a circle cutting jig for a router. This is pretty cool. This particular one is made by a company called Milescraft, there are other circle of cutting jigs out there, this is just an example. The way this would work is that, let's take this, Jenny, run the screw gun, , run the screw gun. Hey, this is live woodworking, Okay, drive that screw right into the center point. Other way, s-il vous plait. You put it on. I did, I put it on reverse, just to mess you up. Nice. That gives my jig a place to pivot. Then the jig can go on to that pivot point, like that, this is adjustable. That lets me set the radius and/or diameter of my cut. Router goes in to the base. Now, notice that this is a plunge router. What that lets me do is, measure the cut and then, I can pivot the whole assembly to make a first pass. I would do this in my three-quarter inch plywood here to get a nice cut. I'd probably do this in three passes, three different depths of cut. So what I would do is set my radius. Let's say we want to be nearly as big as the plywood up there. Lock that into place, plunge, then I would start this pivot that I just talked about. Come back, reset, deeper, another plunge, reset another plunge. This is why we have to be on the sacrificial board, which needs to be clamped to our work bench, so it's not running away from us. We have to get on the sacrificial board, cause we're gonna go all the way through this one. The double faced tape has to be on there so that when we make that last cut and we freed up that outer ring, it doesn't jump into the router, but it's locked in place. That's the cut number one, that we're gonna reduce the diameter, by what we want is the width of our finished frame. Second verse, or maybe we're on the fourth verse by this point, same as the first, we're gonna plunge, make a pass, plunge make a pass, plunge make a pass, until we've cut all the way through. Then I'm gonna go back out, now on this one we're cutting the rib in for the stained glass. So on this pass, we're gonna plunge, but we're never gonna go all the way through. We want to leave behind that shoulder, so that it can receive the stained glass, what's really nice about this is that it's a nice, safe way to make a circle. And if we get Krista to come in close, this is a spiral router bit in here, and that spiral router bit is really a good way to do this. The spiral shape is gonna help excavate dust out of the cut. So it keeps it nice and clean and the spiral shape, the spiral cutters are gonna leave a really, really good cut quality on the surface. So a router-based circle-cutting jig with a plunge router and a spiral bit is a great way to do this. And like I said, this particular one is a Milescraft brand. If you Google it, you will find it online. All right, Bailey. Cool, thanks George. Just a quick update. We are currently live-streaming with WoodWorkers Guild of America, managing editor, George Vondriska. He is answering all of your WWGOA questions. And George speaking of, how do you feel about answering a live question that we just got posted? A live question, oh my gosh. Well, it's about a table saw. Okay, Jason is wondering what is a good method for dust proofing a table saw? What is a good method for dust proofing . My unit to sneak in. So this style, that brand, this style of saw, if you look at the base of it. It's called a cabinet saw. One of the benefits of cabinet saw is oddly enough, there's a cabinet down here. So all the guts of the saw are inside that cabinet. Traditional cabinet saws like this, are made that way. Also what today are being called hybrid saws are made that way. So as a result, one dust port on the bottom of the saw. That better? One dust port on the bottom of the saw and all the dust is doing a pretty good job of getting collected out of it. What's much harder to collect dust on are what are called contractor-style saw. I was on a contractor saw, you'll know it, because the motor is usually sticking out the back. And as a result, there's a very open assembly here. What I've seen some workers do, is to put baffles over those open areas and try to close them up. That's all good until you have to angle the blade, because when you need to angle the blade, the baffles are probably gonna be in the way. So like I said, there's a lot of "it depends" here, when a lot of manufacturers are doing today, that makes a lot of sense, is even on the contractor saws, they're putting shrouds right next to the blade and the answer the dust collection comes in and connects. So that's a very effective way to get it. But again, on your older saws, what you might have to do is just try to rig baffles, basically what we're doing is trying to close up all those outside areas, so the dust doesn't have the opportunity to escape. There's no good one solution for every saw, sorry. Well, sounds good. Hey, while you're there, we have another live question about a table saw. Oh! Ateef wants to know, well, he's setting up a workshop in his shed and he wants to know how much space he should keep behind the table saw? How much space behind the table saw. So it's a good question because it's not really behind the saw, it's also in front of the saw. So Jenny, why don't you get us a piece of oak off of that rolling stand, and we'll see if we can do this, this is a great question. I had to think about it a lot, when I was setting up in here and the question or part of the answer to the question is, yeah, one of the long, any one of the long ones, longer than that, s-il vous plait. Yeah, that's really crooked, get the one off the bottom shelf. What'd you have to ask yourself is what are typically the longest boards that I'm gonna cut. Now, this kind of goes back to the question we had earlier about having stuff on casters. She's so mad at having me, having her go get it, she's gonna poke me with it. Because all we have to have here is enough room on the in-feed side to start the cut, and then we have to have, Jenny's gonna catch, enough room on the outfeed side, so right there, if we want to cut an eight foot board, where that leaves us is that from a few inches in front of the blade, I got to have eight feet behind me, from behind the blade, I've got to have eight feet going that way. So cutting an eight foot board means you need 18 feet of space available. Really good time to have the casters on your table saw so that if 90% of the time you're cutting short stuff, you can position the saw for that. But when you need it, you can maybe open an outside door to handle the longer stuff, or move the saw as you need to have a longer space. Oh good, yeah, thanks for answering that. Well, let's get back to some of our submitted questions. Brett sent us an email earlier this week and he's asking in the absence of a jointer, what technique can be used with a different power tool to accomplish a similar jointer task? Okay, this is a multi-part answer. And Krista we're gonna have you move like 400 times. So first come in . So, our jointer is here on the router table. Now the way of jointer works, is that they've got an offset between the infeed table and the output table. The output table is set to be perfectly even with the top of the knives. The infeed table is just a little below that, that's what creates our cut. On some router tables, including this one, we can get, or they might come with a shim, that would get placed behind the outfeed fence. So as a sits here right now, this fence is perfectly straight across, infeed to outfeed, one straight line. If I add that behind the outfeed fence, then there's a step, there's an offset. Like a jointer, I would make this fence, even with the top of the rotation of my cutter, there's my offset, I can pass from this side to that side and join. If your router table doesn't have that capability, then we need a shop-made jig, that's one for the next step. Oh, it's hanging on the wall, Jenny, could you get it? It's the, with a green laminate on it right in front of your head, the really long one, yep. The white and green one, yep. So, if your router table doesn't have that available, you can make one. This is a shop-made one. And for this Krista, we can be as much down here as you can get. And what we've got going here is a melamine fence that was made in one piece, it's nice and straight from end to end. To get the jointer capability, I added a piece of plastic laminate only to the off-feed side that creates the step, just like the spacer created the step, in the first part of this. So that as we join, we can have the offset we need here, in order to make our cut. Now, as long as Krista's nice and tight there, can you see that router bed, okay? Yep. Good. Okay, this is one of the cool things about jointing on a router table is that we can put a spiral router bit in the table and it's kind of all the way, all the rave these days is people want helical cutters on jointers because helical cutters provide really, really good cut quality. The people in the shop are laughing at me. Okay. It would not be the first time we laugh at you. It would not be the first time you laughed at me, that's correct. Helical cutters provided really good cut quality, especially in highly-figured woods. So when we put that spiral router bit in the router table we get really good cut quality from from it. So even if you own a jointer, you might want to consider this, because if you're working with highly-figured woods, or if you ever needed to edge joint man-made materials, then you could use the carbide router bit for that, rather than use your steel jointer knives, because man-made materials are often hard on tool steel knives. Now we're now done with this question yet, but we've gotta make a move. We're gonna go to the table saw next. Yep, that could go back. Now on that answer, on that part of the answer, the router table part of it, if you look on the website, if you look at wwgoa.com and you look at jointing on a router table, we've got an article where it talks about that and it show a shop matrix to make that happen. We've also got this covered as an article, this is jointing on the table saw. The saw's unplugged, so I can show you some stuff here. This is a shop-made fence. It kind of straddles the blade, about like that as my material comes along, the blade takes a blades width off, our offset is here. So then on the outfeed side, the material starts on that part of the fence to allow it to keep going in a straight line, between the two, I think you get a little better cut quality off the router table than you do off the table saw here. But this is another way that you can edge joint, without a jointer. And again, that article, all of this build information for this jig is covered on wwgoa.com, and just search on there for jointing on a table saw, and you'll find that information. Cool, speaking of WWGOA, do you think we should mention we do have a promo code tonight, especially for viewers. If you'd like to join, to become a premium member where you can get exclusive woodworking videos with George and other experts, we have a promo code for you at 50% off, it's WWGOALIVE. all one word, all caps, and it's down in the description down below, too. And just a quick update for you, George. We have almost 500 viewers watching tonight, so that's awesome. Getting in all of your questions, answering your woodworking questions. So let's go to the next one, yeah? Good. The next one's from Joe Alexander, he says, is there any downside in using a seven and a quarter blade for a 10 inch table saw other than reduced depth of cut? All right, we're gonna ask Krista to move back to the table saw, because she's got to extend her extension cord a little, that's the clicking sound you hear. All right, so in this case, the question is about running a seven and a quarter inch, like a circular saw blade on the table saw rather than a full-sized blade. So, so just wait for me to Saw's unplugged. Okay, conventional blade, 10 inches in diameter, question is, is it okay for me to do this instead? Here's one real easy way to look at this. If I put a dado head on my saw they come in two sizes, either eight inch or six inch, so that helps me decide right away that sure, it'd be okay to run a seven and a quarter inch diameter blade, if I can do this sixes and the eights, shouldn't be any problem with that. Now on this particular saw, which is a SawStop because of the brake mechanism, you can do an eight inch plate or a 10 inch blade. You can't do anything in between, otherwise the break isn't gonna operate, the saw won't allow itself to run. So on saws besides this, I don't see any downside in doing this, except for a loss of capacity, which would be thickness capacity. With the conventional blade in here, fully extended. There's about three inches of depth, three inches depth of cut three inches of maximum thickness. If I changed to a seven and a quarter, I got to do the math in my head. The difference is two and three quarter inches in diameter, means one in three eights in the radius, so it's gonna reduce my thickest board I can cut from three inches to inch and five eighths, if I did my math right. So it will diminish how thick a board you can cut. But as far as the saw operating, shouldn't be a big deal. Sounds good. Hey, just a quick note, it sounds like we did have some technical issues. George. We went blank for about 20 seconds or so. So just apologies to all the viewers out there. This is our first time using the live-streaming technology. So working out the kinks, right? Was it 20 good seconds or 20, maybe it's good that we lost those 20 seconds. Probably. Oh, nice, thank you. All right, let's move on to the next question. Next one is from Ray. His question is related to thin curf versus full curf blades in the rip fence scale. He says that he has a Grizzly cabinet saw and Biesemeyer rip fence. If he sets his scale to be very accurate with a full curf blade. But when he installs the thin-curf blade, the scale is no longer accurate. Of course he says he will use tape measure but that sort of defeats the purpose of the scale. What do you think about that? All right, hey, guess what? We're gonna move back to the table saw. All right, Jenny, so you hold this towards Krista's camera. All right, so first off let's hit this thick curf, thin curf, So, Krista, how close can you get us in profile on these two? Can you get them both? Ah, probably pretty close. Okay, and then the more dead on you can be the easier it'll be for her to see. Perfect, that is perfect. Hold still, hold still, hold still. I'm holding still, Dad. Okay, so what we've got going here, are thick curf and thin curf. The yellow blade being a thin curf plate, curf being the slot that's made as we make a cut, based on the size of the blade, a lot of people will go to the thin-curf blades to make cuts easier. Makes a lot of sense, we're removing less waste per pass. So it's easier to push the material past it. Additionally, there's just less waste, if you're cutting a real expensive material, a thin-curf blade is gonna send less of that material up the dust shoot. I like thin-curf blades, especially, if I'm doing a lot of small rips from a board. If you think about it, if we give up an eighth of an inch, but it's an eight inch rip as a percentage that's not much. if we give up an eighth of an inch, but the rip is three quarters of an inch, as a percentage, that's a lot of wood. Now what happens, okay. Jenny. What happens on the saw is that we decide what blade we're gonna use, and then many table saw us today have pointers or cursors on them, so that I can calibrate the cursor to a tape measure here on the fence. Once I have that, instead of taking a reading between the blade of a fence, I can set that pointer, lock it in place, make the cut. So the question is about when you change from a thin curf to a standard curf, that changes the distance between the blade and the fence. As a result, the cursor loses its accuracy. What I do is I set the cursor to the blade that I'm gonna have in the saw, most of the time. Then depending on the accuracy that I need to have in order to make the cut, I may or may not recalibrate. In other words, if I'm switching to a thin curf for the part I'm cutting, could be plus, or minus a thirtysecond or a sixteenth, then I don't care if I recalibrate my cursor. If the dimension is more critical than that, you gotta take the time to do test cuts, recalibrate, before you start making those critical cuts. Sounds good. I'm gonna throw another question, at you. Live, all right. Andy London, he commented down below and he has a question for you. He says what respirator would you recommend to use with CA glue, and also with fine sanding? He's getting at odor versus particles. Okay, so we've got two different things there. We've got like VOCs, which come off, volatile organic compounds, which come off of liquids like CA glue, or what you need to do there is you need to wear the type of respirator you would wear if you were doing finishing. In fact, Jenny just experienced the finishing respirator today, why don't you grab that one? It's in the cabinet where all the finishes are and we can show them that one. With that side respirator, a lot of times there's charcoal in the film, Uh no, I think it's in the cabinet under the mortiser. That big face shield that you wore that time. Nope, come back toward me. Oh, nevermind, you got it, you got it, you got it. There's charcoal or similar in the cans and that's gonna take those VOCs out of the air. So this style that Jenny's got on. what's nice about this, is in addition to protecting your nose, because we're breathing through these cans in order to get fresh air. This entire environment inside, is also protected, so, you're not going to get any fumes going into your eyes. So for stuff, anything, that's giving off a fume we want something like this. For fine dust, something like a dust mask. It's just gonna depend here on how far you want to go with this. The typical dust masks, Jenny, if you grab one of those, over next to the drill press, those dust masks work fine. And I didn't wear one for a long time, because as many of you may know, not that long ago I had a full beard. And with a beard, when you put these on, Jenny's coming back, when you put these on, if you have a beard they don't seal against your face. So in my case, I got that Trend Airshield that we looked at earlier tonight and that provided the respiration protection I needed for fine dust. On these, you do want to be sure that you're using it correctly, which means pinching this metal band closed against the bridge of your nose, That's part of what makes sure you have a real good seal, or not that kind of seal, a seal on your nose. It sound like a seal with the croup. Thank you, very good. You're very witty, George. All right, next question for you is from Gary. He says, I buy a four by four lumber. And at times when I'm trying to make parts, there are slight bows or twists to the wood. He's essentially wondering if he should instead buy a five by four which costs more and to get more shavings on the floor, or if he should just stick with the four by four. Oh four, okay, four quarter, Bailey, I think is what he means. So is it, it's four slash four, right? Yeah. Okay, so in the world of jargon and hardwoods, we refer to one inch material, that thick, it'd be four quarter, one and a quarter is five quarters. So what most people will do is allow about a quarter inch, for cleaning up the material, getting it smooth, flat, straight, square, to get it down to their final size. So if you want a three quarter inch stock you should be able to get four quarter lumber and bring it down to the three quarter inch that you need. I would only buy five quarter, if I needed full one inch in my project. And part of that is the timeliness in which you start to do those machining operations. If you're buying it rough sawn, a full one inch thick, you should leave it rough until you're ready to use it for a project because what'll happen is as it sits there, it might catch some cups and some twists in it. If it's still an inch thick, you can take those out, we can it down to three quarter. If it's already done a three-quarter and it sits and sits and sits and sits in your shop, and then it develops a cup or a twist there's very little room left in the thickness in order to remove wood to make it okay, make it smooth, flat, straight, square. So leave it full thickness, until you're ready to use it for a project in that name be sure that when it's coming into your shop, you're giving it a chance to acclimate and this part of the country, what was our coldest part of winter? It was like 28, 30 below, right? Very cold. So if the material is stored someplace where it's cold, it needs to come in the shop here and acclimate for two or three days before you're gonna work with it. Then you can start on those machining operations. Sounds good. George, we've got about 10 minutes left. So I'm gonna throw a couple more at you and maybe do a couple more live, and then we'll wrap this up. Our next question for you is from Jerry. He has a Cypress, fresh-cut log, eight foot by eight, or eight foot long, eight inches. And he wants to try to make something out of it, but he's never worked with this kind of wood. What do you suggest? Cutting it or letting it dry? Okay, that's a good question. Jenny could you get, over by the scroll saws, there's a big walnut cookie and it's got, I think it's got a lines drawn on it. So, I get this question a lot, which is I want to turn logs into lumber. So do I let the log dry, or do I let the lumber dry? And the cookie that Jenny is bringing us, is a good example of why we let lumber dry, not logs. Look at beautiful walnut tree this was. We get that check in there, that crack. What's gonna happen, if we allow logs to dry is they're gonna start to crack, like this, part of the deal-i-o with that, is that the pith and the heartwood and the sapwood, have slightly different densities to the cells. So as a result when they start to shrink from the drying process, they shrink a little bit differently. That's what causes part of what causes cracks to happen. So the lines on this particular log represent plain sawing versus quarter sawing. Turn it over. It's a whole different lesson, hmm? Turn it over. So we don't have lines. So what we really want to do is we want to take your Cypress log and I'd love to have your Cypress log by the way, that sounds cool, and machine that into planks, then let the planks dry. Once they're dry, then turn them into a project. So it's never effective to let wood dry as a log, you wanna mill it out first. Sounds good, I have a question for you from Noel. He says for the home woodworker or DIY-type guy, what is a reasonable tolerance for measurements in woodworking? Plus or minus four inches, Noel is gonna be fine. No, so here's a reality check on that, is I worked at a tool shop and I can, I'm familiar with the whole thousandth of an inch gig, but it really doesn't lend itself, to what we're trying to do with wood that's gonna undergo seasonal movement and make all of these changes from winter to summer that wood typically does. So part of the lesson I try to teach woodworkers is that often accuracy is gonna say, I'm already saying it backwards, live woodworking, consistency is often more important than accuracy. Meaning that what I really try to teach people to do is make sure that when you're cutting every part that's supposed to be the same, is the same. If it's even a sixteenth of an inch too long, in most cases not in every case, it's probably still gonna be okay. Now of course there are exceptions to the rule, an inset drawer front, it has to be exactly the right size to fit in, but if we're making a table and it's got two long rails and two short rails and we miss those dimensions by just a little bit, as long as the two long ones are the same, the two short ones are the same, all four legs are the same. You're gonna be okay and you're gonna be a happier woodworker. If you've cut yourself a break. Now I'm not saying plus or minus a sixteenth, I'm guess I'm saying plus or minus a thirtysecond, which in thousands is about thirty thousandths of an inch. But really my lesson out of this is try to make sure that everything is very, very consistent. That sounds good. I think we have a couple of more time, or a couple of more minutes for some more questions. Vinny wants to know, his woodworking tools have been in storage for quite a while and they've developed some rust on the top. He wants to know the best way to remove the rust and renew the surface, or the surfaces, to a factory finish. All right. We're gonna look at the table saw again for that, we need stuff, Jenny, put your gloves on, please. All right, so my table saw is not rusty, although it's got some spots on it. So the first thing I'm gonna do is spray this surface with a rust remover. So this is just Liquid Wrench, get this at an auto parts store, get it at a home center, and what we're trying to make happen here is just something that would cut the rust on the surface here, and Jenny, I'm gonna get you a sanding block, hang on just a moment and then wrap your sandpaper around this. Because what I want to do, is I want to make sure that the sanding I do doesn't have any negative effect on the flatness of the surface. So, go ahead and elbow grease it, go ahead sand away, and that's why I wrapped the sandpaper, around that sanding block, this is a 500 grit sandpaper, wet/dry sandpaper would be a great choice for this application, because we are wet sanding. So let's see, I'm gonna get some paper towel. All right, give that a stop. It might be a little hard to see under these lighting conditions, but this did have an effect, a positive effect. I've done this same technique on stuff where a ceiling leaked and water dripped from the ceiling and left huge rust stains on the table. It'll take longer, but this will clean it up, next step, wipe this down with mineral spirits or another solvent to get all the junk off of there, next step after that, to prevent this from happening again, look for, am I in the right spot with this Krista, for the product. We want to look for woodworking specific lubricants. The key to this kind of stuff is that there's no silicone in it. We don't want any silicone on the surface that can migrate into your material and then prevent finish from sticking to it later. So make sure you're looking for the right product, this particular product, this GlideCote, you can buy it on Amazon, it used to be called TopCote, different name. All right. Sounds good, well, George, one last question for you that was submitted live tonight. Jason wants to know, how did you get started in woodworking? How did I get started? Well, I feel like I've told this story so many times, but I'll tell it again. When I was in sixth grade in North Riverside, Illinois,- When was that, before World War One? I'm sorry did you- So anyway, when I was in sixth grade, I had a shop teacher, Bill Mathis, at Hauser Junior High down in Illinois, and he was a really good shop teacher. And my dad had died when I was little, my dad died when I was six. So Bill Mathis was a real nice guy and I just really glommed onto him. And at some point, maybe in seventh grade or so, I decided I wanted to be just like Bill Mathis when I grew up, asked him how he became a shop teacher. He told me he went to UW, it's now University of Wisconsin-Stout. So from that moment on, I took every shop class I could take. I did a lot of punchy little woodworking at my house. The neighbor gave me a Dunlap scroll saw when I was 12. I had a lathe when I was 13. I did whatever I could on my own at my mom's house. I went to school to be a tech-ed teacher, doing a little bit of conventional shop teaching, but primarily started teaching adults, and that's really what got me where I am today. Now, Bailey don't shut us down yet. Open it up, Jenny, Jenny's dying to show off, and I don't blame her. Some of you have followed us, either via Facebook or YouTube or both, but this is Jenny's finished guitar that she made, and there are three videos about this, so you can catch up with those. If you just go on wwgoa.com and search guitar, there's a video store shot along the way, but give them the 30,000 foot view, what's the main body wood, again? African limba. African black limba and body style? We always mess this up, with the firebird, or thunderbird? It's not thunderbird. It's a firebird. Okay, got a plan, Jenny did most of the work herself and just pluck the strings, because it's cool. All right, Bailey, now you can do with us, Did you enjoy the process? I'll ask you that. I did enjoy the process. And working with, you know, your dad? Well- not that part. It was fun. Okay. All right, Bailey. That's beautiful, great job. Thank you. Well, we're at the end of our time do you guys have any parting words of wisdom for us? Well, I think this was cool, I think for people who didn't get their questions answered now, watch Ask WWGOA, it's a regular column on wwgoa.com, look there for your question and answer. Additionally, if the powers that be, think this went well enough, we'll do it again. So we might then bring your question, to the next session we do with this. If you have suggestions about what we should do, we want to know what we could do to make it bigger, better, faster, stronger, and anything from you, Jenny? You wanna tell the, you know, 8 million people who are tuned in right now, watching this. I can't think of any puns right now. You can't think of any puns. Why don't you tell them, who should not be woodworkers? My all-time favorite woodworker joke. Oh God, is this that pediatrician thing? Yeah, why don't pediatricians make good woodworkers? Because they have no patients. They've got very little patients, Oh, I'm hurt, an opportunity for stardom, and you messed up the punchline. My favorite woodworking joke. All right, Bailey. That's very bad form of humor. I think Jenny and Krista behind the camera and I are, Oh, and Sheba, the bench dog is here, but she's been sleeping the whole time, there she is. Okay, so the four of us are ready to sign off and say, as Mr. Mathis used to say, get out of the shop and make chips, boys. Sounds great, thanks so much guys. Bye! Thanks for watching!